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Thread: Gearbox Oil

  1. #11
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    Good explanation........
    [ame]http://www.widman.biz/uploads/Transaxle_oil.pdf[/ame]

    whitehillbilly

  2. #12
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    Sorry Admin,
    Just thought it was just a link.

    whitehillbilly

  3. #13
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    I've just been going through the same investigation, and also found the Richard Widman document shown above. Richard runs an oil company, so presumably he knows what he's talking about.

    Though I no longer own any old tractors and therefore cannot comment on the current situation, it can't be more than 5 years ago that the oil company's agricultural reps were selling and recommending oils specifically for "yellow metal" compatibility. Whilst it is possible that the formulations have changed and the modern oils are indeed safe with yellow metals, it is of course equally possible that providing the correct products to a small "classic" market is not profitable, and the risks associated with recommending the wrong product (especially to low use classic cars) are outweighed by the costs saved in not carrying low turnover products. In any case, most gear oils on the shelf in my local stores are GL5 products.

    Roamerdrive (previously Roverdrive) recommend a synthetic GL4 oil (Castrol Syntrans 75W/90 Multivehicle) in their installation manual, but it's not available in Australia. We do have Syntrans 75W/85, which is also a GL4, and a couple of companies import and sell Redline MTL, which is also a Roamerdrive recommendation, and Redline MT-90. I contacted Roamerdrive directly and (contrary to their installation guide) they recommended against using synthetic oils in high ambient temperatures because "they tend to weep out and are a bit thin so makes things noisy". They recommended Penrite Mild EP as the best choice in Australia.

    Castrol sell Syntrans 75W/85 as a GL4 synthetic, and their technical rep. suggested it would be OK. They also sell a heavy transport product, Syntrans 75W/90 Heavy Duty which is synthetic GL4 but on paper it has significantly higher viscosity than the normal "high street" products. In the UK Castrol still sell EP-90 in old style tins for classic cars, and it can be bought on eBay and shipped over, though the freight cost is high.

    Penrite's product selector recommends "Mild EP" from their classic vehicle range, but as an EP-90 replacement for the gearbox and Fairey overdrive their technical staff suggested Trans Gear 75W/90 which is a GL5 product. They stated that the additives would not attack yellow metal, but if the Richard Widman document is to be believed then direct chemical attack is not actually the issue. They also produce Trans Gear 75W/80, which is GL4, but they didn't mention it as a recommendation.

    HiTec oils list a 75w/90 GL4 Gear Oil on their web page, but I have no idea how good it is or where to buy it.

    At present I have not 100% decided on a product, but based on The Richard Widman explanation I have decided to stick with a GL4 oil. I'm leaning towards Penrite's Mild EP but I've not completely ruled out Redline MT90.

  4. #14
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    JDNSW is online now RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    I should perhaps comment that the wear to synchromesh problems described above can be entirely avoided by simply driving so as to not use the synchromesh - i.e double declutch every change. This should prove no hardship to drivers of Series 1 & 2, who are used to doing this anyway for the first two gears.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
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  5. #15
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    G'day All,

    I can give you some positive feedback on Castrol Syntrans 75w/85 GL4 manual transmission oil. Have been using this oil since 2012 in a S2a 1966 SWB transfer and gearbox. Before I fitted a roamadrive did my research as you are doing. Ray at roamadrive gave me good advice. They have an excellent article on the use of synthetic GL4 oil in the roamadrive.
    When changing over to this thinner oil I replaced all the external oil seals on transfer and gearbox. Used Viton seals.
    Most important is the transfer rear output seal. Used speedie sleeve and viton here. The roamdrive needs the oil level increased in the transfer box and you use about 3.25 lts and 0.5 ltrs in the O/D. So this seal is flooded with oil. Oil is available from Burson and bought 20 ltrs.(the Ford Focus uses it as well).Thinner oil means you have to slow down the gear changes slightly when oil hot and slightly more gear noise noticed however, that's included with a LandRover. Don't park on very steep slopes with bonnet facing down. Miss the smell of EP oil in the cabin on a hot day!!!!!. No known issues with this oil and long drain times make up for the extra cost.
    Fit a magnetic drain plug to the gearbox.
    Chris

  6. #16
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    its a series.

    go to kmart.

    buy the cheapest brand gear oil they have that says 80/90 on it.

    thats what the series wants. just give it to it regularly

    if you cant find it at kmart goto supercheap anything that has the exact numbers 80/90 on the front of it will do

    I found about 10 products that are suitable from searching the online website. if you widen the range to include the 75-90 ranges you get even more choices.

    I would advise to avoid the single weight oils. but more because I just couldnt be bothered opening up and researching any more product SDS's

    before you ask...

    Penrite Gear Oil - 80W-90, 2.5 Litre - Supercheap Auto Australia
    or
    Nulon Gearbox & Differential Oil - 80W-90, 4 Litre - Supercheap Auto Australia

    IF I had to pick 2
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  7. #17
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    Well, I headed into Super Cheap Auto and cam home with the stuff Hillbilly first posted which is the Nulon Smooth Shift GL4 75W-80. I am stunned at how runny it is, very easy to fill the gearbox and transfer case and no gear oil smell. Still haven't tried my rebuilt gearbox though, so no idea how it will go noise wise. I have also changed both diff oils, these also got same. What came out was like honey, what went in was more like water! I am thinking this stuff is just too runny for the front swivel joints though, I am thinking of a 140 weight for these but any suggestions are welcome.

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    I found about 10 products that are suitable from searching the online website. if you widen the range to include the 75-90 ranges you get even more choices.
    If you'd spent $2K+ on an overdrive whose manufacturer specifically states NEVER to use a GL5 oil, you'd put a GL5 oil in it?

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Warb View Post
    If you'd spent $2K+ on an overdrive whose manufacturer specifically states NEVER to use a GL5 oil, you'd put a GL5 oil in it?
    I wouldn't fit an overdrive. Its a series
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    the series box wont care. (especially not a II or IIA box)

    the diffs and tcase definitely wont.

    the biggest issue you're going to have with the "thinner" modern gear oils is keeping the stuff in the box.

    IF you need to you can even put cooking oil in to get you home.

    I fitted a roamerdrive a few years back and I am running a Mobil 75W-90 GL4 mineral oil in the gearbox and transfer case. I also fitted the cooling sump cover on the transfer case. My gearbox is fairly buggered but doesn't jump out of gear and I had put it in temporarily about ten years ago whilst I reconditioned the original which was far better than this one.
    I just haven't got around to re-fitting the reconditioned box.


    Like Blknight says, keeping the thinner oil within the confines of the gearbox/TC is almost an impossibility. It seems to have drips where there isn't even an exit point. I am sure it soaks through the alloy housing. I also run 3.54 diffs and a while back before the Melrose event I thought I might change back to the standard 4.77's seeing that I now have the overdrive and that we also intended to tow a trailer the 5-600 kays to Melrose. Big Mistake! the transmission noise was horrid, possibly exacerbated by the thin oil (75W-90), but it drove us mad, couldn't think, let alone have a conversation. At the last minute I even swapped the wheels from our perentie in an attempt to slow the drive train down a bit and reduce the noise. Once we got home the 3.54's went straight back in. I would like to go back to a thicker oil if I could find one that wasn't detrimental to the roamerdrive.


    Stick with the Treacle Billy!!!


    Cheers, Mick.
    1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
    1971 S2A 88
    1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
    1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
    1972 S3 88 x 2
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
    1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
    REMLR 88
    1969 BSA Bantam B175

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