Unbolting the flanges is doable without a deep socket - I did it a week or two ago using a ring spanner for one end and an open end for the other at the diff and an offset ring at the front (bolts are captive at the front).
The secret is to work on the bolt on the outside of the bend at the U-joint, that is, on top at the front, and the bottom at the rear, and turn the shaft to get at each bolt. Chock the front wheels, jack up at least one rear wheel, and handbrake off, neutral.
Later 2a on use UNF bolts at the rear, which makes the spanner choice easier, and replacing the BSF ones with these is a good idea. Use of new nyloc nuts is also a good practice, and you won't find these in BSF. Replacing the front ones is more problematic since the size of the bolt head is critical to holding them. (and you need to remove the output flange to replace them)
John
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
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