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Thread: Universal joint replacement rear prop shaft

  1. #1
    Woodleigh Guest

    Universal joint replacement rear prop shaft

    Good evening folks

    I have just commenced replacing Uni joints on rear prop shaft and discovered I need a 1/4 Whitworth deep offset ring spanner for the output shaft flange nuts on rear of gearbox.

    I don't own such a rare beast of a tool and expect I'm not the only series owner devoid of one either, so is there something I'm missing here, is there another way to do this job other than trying replace the joints with prop shaft in situ?

    I don't like idea of banging around with flanges in place and potentially upsetting seals etc on diff and gearbox.

    Any suggestions on alternative tools/methods would be welcomed.

    Cheers
    Mick

  2. #2
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    Unbolting the flanges is doable without a deep socket - I did it a week or two ago using a ring spanner for one end and an open end for the other at the diff and an offset ring at the front (bolts are captive at the front).

    The secret is to work on the bolt on the outside of the bend at the U-joint, that is, on top at the front, and the bottom at the rear, and turn the shaft to get at each bolt. Chock the front wheels, jack up at least one rear wheel, and handbrake off, neutral.

    Later 2a on use UNF bolts at the rear, which makes the spanner choice easier, and replacing the BSF ones with these is a good idea. Use of new nyloc nuts is also a good practice, and you won't find these in BSF. Replacing the front ones is more problematic since the size of the bolt head is critical to holding them. (and you need to remove the output flange to replace them)

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  3. #3
    Woodleigh Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post
    Unbolting the flanges is doable without a deep socket - I did it a week or two ago using a ring spanner for one end and an open end for the other at the diff and an offset ring at the front (bolts are captive at the front).

    The secret is to work on the bolt on the outside of the bend at the U-joint, that is, on top at the front, and the bottom at the rear, and turn the shaft to get at each bolt. Chock the front wheels, jack up at least one rear wheel, and handbrake off, neutral.

    Later 2a on use UNF bolts at the rear, which makes the spanner choice easier, and replacing the BSF ones with these is a good idea. Use of new nyloc nuts is also a good practice, and you won't find these in BSF. Replacing the front ones is more problematic since the size of the bolt head is critical to holding them. (and you need to remove the output flange to replace them)

    John
    Thanks John, it's the spanner selection for front that has me stuck. I assume you have 1/4 whitworth ring spanner with offset. I'm off shopping of some today

  4. #4
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by Woodleigh View Post
    Thanks John, it's the spanner selection for front that has me stuck. I assume you have 1/4 whitworth ring spanner with offset. I'm off shopping of some today
    Yes. Belonged to my father. Best bet is OP shops, flea markets, garage sales etc - you can often find them for a couple of dollars.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  5. #5
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    9/16 3/8 single hex socket will get them on a series.

    a wobble drive extension makes it easy, you just have to rotate the shaft so the yoke clearances are at their wideest.
    Dave

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