I'll have my optional equipment parts book in Cooma - you might be interested to have a look - the setup is quite different to what you have pictured (which is similar to what I had on my Series 1 and Series 2).
John,
The drive plate in the parts book (I cannot find a photo) has two square 'keys' attached to the back that look like they drop straight into the cutouts in the pulley for the lockwasher.
This version has cutouts for the lockwasher and ?? Maybe a different method of keying to the pulley ? Without a key of some sort you are relying on friction between the drive plate, pulley & HT bolt to provide the drive.
Looks like the drive plate changed over time as you mentioned. Mine has the 6-pins which means it must be later.
Once I find time I'll look at making a drive plate but I also need the driveshaft, fairlead brackets and operating lever. The operating lever should be easy to replicate and the fairlead brackets could be repaired if I can find someone who can weld aluminium.
DSCN3552 by Colin Radley, on Flickr
Colin
'56 Series 1 with homemade welder
'65 Series IIa Dormobile
'70 SIIa GS
'76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
'81 SIII FFR
'95 Defender Tanami
'58 Series II (sold)
Motorcycles :-
Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C
I'll have my optional equipment parts book in Cooma - you might be interested to have a look - the setup is quite different to what you have pictured (which is similar to what I had on my Series 1 and Series 2).
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
Colin,
yes, that sounds like the part I have been referring to. I am a tad out of my depth here, but looking at the parts diagram in the manual for the winch, it seems that the 2 l petrol version and the 2.25l arrangements are quite different in this area. (and a later version with quite a different drive arrangement). The 2.0 version has the 3 pins sticking out of the part on the winch, with a plate having 6 holes attached somehow to the crankshaft pulley (noting your further comment about that). Your first photo shows bits that appear to belong to that one, but it’s not the one I’m after. Two square keys at the back, and 3 round pins at the front.
still hoping that someone has a plate like that and can make some measurements....
roman
If you have the mating part and the pulley on the engine you should be able to work out the dimensions.
The only problem might be the HT bolt, if you cut the starter dog off the standard bolt the hex head may be too big but you could mill it down to a smaller hex size.
I can't find a picture of the drive dog but it's in the Series I & II parts manuals. In the Series II manual it's listed for the 2.25 Petrol & Diesel.
Colin
'56 Series 1 with homemade welder
'65 Series IIa Dormobile
'70 SIIa GS
'76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
'81 SIII FFR
'95 Defender Tanami
'58 Series II (sold)
Motorcycles :-
Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C
Colin,
yes, I may end up having to guess the sizes, but, for example, the holes in the driven plate are some 11.4 mm dia - are the pins 3/8 (lots of clearance) or somewhat more snug? And how much axial clearance is normal when the winch is disengaged? Etc, etc...
sure I can guess, but normally the wonder of a forum like this is that someone is willing to share the info.
the bolt is no problem, really. Just ordered a couple of GR8 3/4 Unf puppies on flea bay for not much. May have to trim the head a tad, but that’s easy. Don’t understand why it’s a HT bolt - it’s not doing much!
Anyway, for measurements....
Still hoping.....
roman
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