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Thread: Help with S2a electrics and S3 diesel engine/alternator combination

  1. #1
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    Help with S2a electrics and S3 diesel engine/alternator combination

    After reading a tonne of stuff online from a lot of different forums including the AULRO brains trust, I now believe that when it comes to electrics I just 'dont get it'. As a result, I do have a set of questions that I would like SIMPLE LAYMANS (if possible) answers to please.

    Contraints:
    1) 1963 S2a with original wiring including voltage regulator and ammeter on instrument cluster (+tive earth setup)

    2) Engine is 2.25 diesel 3brg (told from an S3) with alternator, thick cable going from rear of alternator to +tive battery terminal (negative earth setup).

    Questions:
    Alternator would be going to +tive on battery terminal, body of alternator going to chassis ground (both leads already on alternator) - is this correct?

    Voltage regulator - the big unit bolted to the bulkhead near the steering column. My understanding is this is purely to provide an 'average' 10v to the fuel and ammeter gauges (not sure about temp gauge) - is this correct?

    Given the alternator pumps out up to 14v to keep the battery charged, the voltage regulator is still required for the gauges to operate accurately? - is this correct?

    Ammeter - a measure of current draw?, however voltmeter preferred so can disconnect this and keep on dash to retain original look. What do I do with the two connectors?

    As the wiring is +tive earth, I need to convert to -tive earth due to alternator. No other changes to the wiring required if the ammeter is disconnected? Any thing else I need to know?
    Carlos
    1994 Land Rover Discovery 300tdi
    1996 Land Rover Discovery 300tdi
    1963 Land Rover Series 2a 88
    Youtube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCu3...BtsNIuTyGkAo5w
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cap View Post
    <snip>

    Questions:
    Alternator would be going to +tive on battery terminal, body of alternator going to chassis ground (both leads already on alternator) - is this correct?
    correct


    Voltage regulator - the big unit bolted to the bulkhead near the steering column. My understanding is this is purely to provide an 'average' 10v to the fuel and ammeter gauges (not sure about temp gauge) - is this correct?
    NO, the Regulator is redundant, not required.
    Ammeter now redundant ,

    Temp & fuel gauge use a voltage stabiliser (often incorrectly referred to as a regulator) , a small thing behind the dash.


    Given the alternator pumps out up to 14v to keep the battery charged, the voltage regulator is still required for the gauges to operate accurately? - is this correct?
    Incorrect - see above.


    Ammeter - a measure of current draw?, however voltmeter preferred so can disconnect this and keep on dash to retain original look. What do I do with the two connectors?
    connect them together & insulate.


    As the wiring is +tive earth, I need to convert to -tive earth due to alternator. No other changes to the wiring required if the ammeter is disconnected? Any thing else I need to know?
    You might need to get a new flash can and find a voltage stabiliser for your gauges.

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    Dont forger the Alternator light , probably use your old generator light if its not earthed to the dash , if you cant follow this diagram let me know & I'll highlight the bits you need. Its about as simple as it gets.


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    Quote Originally Posted by goingbush View Post
    NO, the Regulator is redundant, not required.
    Ammeter now redundant ,

    Temp & fuel gauge use a voltage stabiliser (often incorrectly referred to as a regulator) , a small thing behind the dash.
    Thanks. When i pulled the dash for both the 88 and 109 2a the only unit in there was the cylinder flasher (wiring ran to stalk). I didnt see any other device. So what does the voltage stabiliser look like?

    Edit: Does it look like this, cos I dont have it.


    As for the voltage regulator unit, there are a number of wires going into it. What happens with these terminals?

    Cheers,
    Carlos
    1994 Land Rover Discovery 300tdi
    1996 Land Rover Discovery 300tdi
    1963 Land Rover Series 2a 88
    Youtube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCu3...BtsNIuTyGkAo5w
    Instagram: https://instagram.com/rover_tasmania/

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    More or less, although it can be replaced by a solid state device. In Series 2a (from Suffix 'C' on, it is on the bulkhead behind the instrument cluster, on Series 3 it is on the back of the speedo.

    However!

    If it has an Ammeter, it left the factory without a voltage stabiliser, as the fuel gauge fitted up to 1967 (Suffix 'B' does not require one, and there is no temperature gauge). Since you discuss the Ammeter, I strongly suspect you will not find a voltage stabiliser.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

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    Thanks. OK just rechecked the dash and yes I made a mistake, no temp gauge as such. Attached is the dash x 2 - grey is the 67 2a, green the 63 2a.



    So with no voltage stabiliser, the only thing left is the voltage regulator wires if this is no longer needed. So whats the best way to connect these (bridge them)?
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Carlos
    1994 Land Rover Discovery 300tdi
    1996 Land Rover Discovery 300tdi
    1963 Land Rover Series 2a 88
    Youtube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCu3...BtsNIuTyGkAo5w
    Instagram: https://instagram.com/rover_tasmania/

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    Quote Originally Posted by Cap View Post

    So with no voltage stabiliser, the only thing left is the voltage regulator wires if this is no longer needed. So whats the best way to connect these (bridge them)?
    no you've got both pos and neg there , if you bridge them you will empty the smoke out of the loom, lots of it .

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    refer to this diagram. & alternator diagram in above post.

    Remove all wires A & A1 from Regulator & join all together.

    Remove F - not needed . It wont be thick enough to run to the Alternator & supply 50Amp otherwise you could join it in with A & A1 and use it for Alternator +ve

    Remove both D wires and join them together (insulate) and take that D wire from the generator and connect it to the Alternator IND connector .



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    Started to put the wiring back in after inspection and it will do for now. I found that the loom that goes into the cavity behind the dash cluster has a purple wire plug. This purple wire seems to be used for different purposes on different wiring harnesses. Given its behind the dash, was this wire the feed to interior light (optional) - the two diagrams above show the different uses of this purple wire so wanting to make sure leaving if blank was meant to be as there are no other wires joining to it.
    Carlos
    1994 Land Rover Discovery 300tdi
    1996 Land Rover Discovery 300tdi
    1963 Land Rover Series 2a 88
    Youtube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCu3...BtsNIuTyGkAo5w
    Instagram: https://instagram.com/rover_tasmania/

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    Hi Carlos,

    As far as I'm aware the only purple wire on a standard s2a / s3 wiring diagram is the stop light, and it's purple with a green trace.

    I don't know of any purple behind the dash.

    Cheers,
    John

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