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Thread: Series III - SWB - New find - replace rusty rear spring hangers

  1. #1
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    Series III - SWB - New find - replace rusty rear spring hangers

    Hi Guys,

    I'm looking to buy my first Land Rover Series 3 SWB (link and pics below).

    Land Rover Series 3 - SWB - Google Photos

    $_20-2.JPG

    $_20-3.JPG

    $_20-4.JPG

    $_20-5.JPG

    $_20-6.JPG

    $_20-7.JPG

    From what I can gather the car looks good on paper but has a rusty rear spring hanger that I'm guessing will need to be replaced for a Vic roadworthy certificate?

    42286837_2237304516501951_9184902813648420864_n.jpg

    Keen to hear your thoughts on

    1. the rust (is it likely to be passable for a Vic RWC?)
    2. cost to replace the rusty section?
    3. anyone recommendations for repairers in Victoria that could do it?

    Cheers
    Adam

  2. #2
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    It shouldn't pass roadworthy, but it is just possible that it looks worse than it is, and is just surface rust lifting the paint. If this is the case, some vigorous application of a wire brush and a scraper followed by trying to poke some holes with a screwdriver to show that is all it is, and touch up the paint.

    On the other hand, if you can actually poke holes in it, as is quite likely, it will have to be repaired. From the picture, the rust seems to be mainly the chassis itself, not the spring hanger. The whole chassis should be carefully checked, as rust in other places is likely if it is in one location. (probably in places that are harder to see!)

    The cost will depend entirely on how bad it is found to be, and will be mostly labour. I am not up to date with the Melbourne area, so I can't make any suggestions.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
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    I saw that advertised and thought it was a bit expensive.

    If it's the one I think it is it's very close to me if you need someone to take a look for you.


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
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    Lionelgee is offline YarnMaster Silver Subscriber
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    Hello Adam,

    The block of wood against the driver's side rear wheel suggests that some attention needs to be paid to the brakes as well! There could be more things wrong with the vehicle other than rust in the rear spring hanger.

    The seats are not original - have they been engineer approved? Here in Queensland there would be a "blue plate" which proves the modification has been inspected and approved. If it has not been blue plated for the seats it is an additional cost for you.

    It does feature an ex-army brush bar which is a bit of a bonus.

    Kind regards
    Lionel

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    JDNSW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lionelgee View Post
    ........

    It does feature an ex-army brush bar which is a bit of a bonus.

    Kind regards
    Lionel
    But which will not pass a Victorian roadworthy. But no problem - its bolted on, and can be put back after the roadworthy!
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

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    Quote Originally Posted by gromit View Post
    I saw that advertised and thought it was a bit expensive.

    If it's the one I think it is it's very close to me if you need someone to take a look for you.


    Colin
    Hi Colin, Its advertised in Bewick but actually located in Beaumaris. I'm hoping to check it out later today. Thanks for the offer mate. One of the issues I've had in this buying process is finding someone with expert knowledge that I could pay to help me do a pre inspection. Colin if you are up for it I might contact you if the search continues?

    Cheers,
    Adam

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    Quote Originally Posted by Lionelgee View Post
    Hello Adam,

    The block of wood against the driver's side rear wheel suggests that some attention needs to be paid to the brakes as well! There could be more things wrong with the vehicle other than rust in the rear spring hanger.

    The seats are not original - have they been engineer approved? Here in Queensland there would be a "blue plate" which proves the modification has been inspected and approved. If it has not been blue plated for the seats it is an additional cost for you.

    It does feature an ex-army brush bar which is a bit of a bonus.

    Kind regards
    Lionel
    Thanks Lionel.

    Ok so I am now the proud owner of a Series III - SWB Land Rover. I bought it. Next job is to get it road worthy.

  8. #8
    Lionelgee is offline YarnMaster Silver Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by lammy View Post
    Thanks Lionel.

    Ok so I am now the proud owner of a Series III - SWB Land Rover. I bought it. Next job is to get it road worthy.
    Hello Adam,

    Congratulations on your purchase!

    Now just go online and do a quick sanity test. Do the test before you start working on the Land Rover and do the same test after about six months of working on it. See if you can tell the difference between the "Before" and "After" result. A similar thing would be a bank balance "Before" and "After"

    After working on the brakes of my 2A SWB the difference in both sanity and bank balance levels was stark. Especially since the matter is still unresolved. For example, a complete set of brake springs are on their way from the UK.

    Also, here is another challenge ... see if you can stop at just buying one. There will be that "bargain" parts car out there. Followed by one that will be "just too good to miss". After that the excuses just get lamer. "It followed me home"...

    Ba ha haaawwwww

    Kind regards
    Lionel

  9. #9
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    Welcome to the forum and congratulations on your purchase, overall it appears to be a reasonable straight vehicle.
    As Lionel pointed out, unless the seats are engineered they will most likely get knocked back on the RWC inspection.
    You may also find that you have to reach into your pockets a bit as these vehicles (Series 3) are now over forty years
    old and unless the steering and brakes have been maintained they usually need a few dollars thrown at them for a
    roadworthy. It also looks like the radiator may have been spitting out some rusty coloured liquid.
    The other issue that often presents itself on RWC inspections is the condition of the shackle spring/chassis bushes.
    For the novice they can be a real PITA to replace in the chassis, but there are plenty of tips here on the forum on the
    best way to go about it. The battery looks like it is being held in place with a "gravity strap" so attention may be required
    there too for the roadworthy.
    I see the vehicle is on CPS plates, are you going the same way, or full rego?

    Cheers for now and good luck.
    Mick.
    1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
    1971 S2A 88
    1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
    1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
    1972 S3 88 x 2
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
    1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
    REMLR 88
    1969 BSA Bantam B175

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lionelgee View Post
    Hello Adam,

    Congratulations on your purchase!

    Now just go online and do a quick sanity test. Do the test before you start working on the Land Rover and do the same test after about six months of working on it. See if you can tell the difference between the "Before" and "After" result. A similar thing would be a bank balance "Before" and "After"

    After working on the brakes of my 2A SWB the difference in both sanity and bank balance levels was stark. Especially since the matter is still unresolved. For example, a complete set of brake springs are on their way from the UK.

    Also, here is another challenge ... see if you can stop at just buying one. There will be that "bargain" parts car out there. Followed by one that will be "just too good to miss". After that the excuses just get lamer. "It followed me home"...

    Ba ha haaawwwww

    Kind regards
    Lionel
    what a classic! made me laugh out loud.

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