If your brakes were dragging enough to make the hubs hot the performance would be so underwhelming it would not have been a 'blast' around town, defo a problem , did you pack the bearings with grease, Have you got any oil in your swivel housings ??
Hi All,
Another possible teething problem with my recently finished S2a wide light project, after a blast around town yesterday (about 20 klms) I noticed that the front hubs were a little warm, almost too hot to touch. That's suggests to me that my bearings are a little tight, but I was also wondering if brake use can also heat up the hubs ?
In contrast the rear hubs are cool as.
I didn't have an end float gauge for setting the bearings, so it was a bit of guess work, and I erred on the side of being a bit loose rather than a bit tight, so that's why I am wondering if the warmth might come from the brake drums as well/instead ??
Any ideas appreciated.
Thanks
John
If your brakes were dragging enough to make the hubs hot the performance would be so underwhelming it would not have been a 'blast' around town, defo a problem , did you pack the bearings with grease, Have you got any oil in your swivel housings ??
Yep bearings packed, and swivels filled with EP140.
I hear what you're saying about the brakes, so I guess the bearings are set a bit tight.
Cheers,
John
just a wee bit from the sound of it.
I agree with goingbush.
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
Jack it up and spin the wheels to see if the brakes are dragging first before you go to the trouble of adjusting the wheel bearings. Might be just a simple job of backing the brakes off. Cheers, Mick.
1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
1971 S2A 88
1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
1972 S3 88 x 2
1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
REMLR 88
1969 BSA Bantam B175
The way I do wheel bearings is turn the inner nut with a screwdriver through the hole of a hub nut spanner, tighten it till its hard to turn , no force or strength needed, back it off about 1/8 turn. put washer on tighten outer nut with a longer screwdriver . bend tabs over , job done, should last 250,000 km .
G'day All,
This is how I adjust the end float on the hub bearings on a Series 2a. The distance piece 217351 were originally made out of bearing grade material and did not wear on the bearing side face. However, now they are made out of EN grade material and are softer. So they do wear on the bearing face which causes excessive end float on a daily driver in a short time. Hence, I set the end float to "0". Making sure there is NO pre-load. Also when you bend over the locking plate on the stub axle inner nut make sure you don't damage the cage on the outer bearing. I mark the screw driver depth so that you can't touch the cage.
Note: My hubs are oil lubricated.
Chris
Hi John.
Did mine per manual.
Was surprised how 'loose' it felt.
whitehillbilly
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