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Thread: Replacing mechanical fuel pump with electric on 2.25 petrol engine

  1. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by Timj View Post

    If the pumps are in parallel you have to make sure that neither of them have suspect seals that would allow fuel to run back the other way. If you repair the seals in the mechanical pump (or replace it which is pretty cheap and easy) then why put the electric pump in anyway?
    I already replaced the mechanical with a new one, although an after market one, and with vehicle not getting much use yet, it seems to suffer from sitting around. The remedy is pull the fuel hose off the carbie side of the filter and suck :-)

    Cheers,
    John

  2. #42
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    I have seen some After Market pumps without a manual priming lever so who you gonna call?


    Confirming my original post. When standing unused for aprox 3 weeks without running I use my SU with a short power lead permanently attached to the pump. When I jump in & it needs a fair bit of turning over I lift the bonnet & just manually touch the bare wire onto the battery +. This gives the SU a few bursts until it stops rattling which is enough to get fuel to the carby inlet & beyond. Hit the starter button & awaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaayyyyy we go. Job done. When running, the Mechanical pump does the work.

    That is my requirement & only mine & it suits my requirement. Sounds like you require something a bit different but don't let it become too involved but try to keep safe operation in mind.

    I could add a switch for the SU & do it from inside the cab without opening the bonnet, but I really do not need it & so I haven't.


    "You pays yer money & yer takes yer choice/chance."


    Bon chance.

  3. #43
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    Gotcha, makes sense. I'll do it so the switch to operate the electric pump in the engine bay too. Safety first !!

    Cheers,
    John

  4. #44
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    If you are going to have both electric and mechanical fuel pumps, you need them in series, not parallel. If you have them in parallel and one has leaky valves, the fuel will just go around in circles and not get delivered to the carburettor. If you have them in series, they each can have one leaky valve yet both still work.

    Aaron

  5. #45
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    The mechanical pump will draw through a facet style pump.

    Id put them in series with the electric pump down near the chassis.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

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  6. #46
    numpty's Avatar
    numpty is offline TopicToaster Silver Subscriber
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    My Gunbuggy had an electric (Facet) pump fitted and it ultimately decided it didn't wish to pick up fuel anymore. Changing the position of the pump made no difference.

    I decided to go back to original diaphragm pump and that worked. Yes, if the vehicle is not used for 4 days or more (most of the time) the vehicle wont start due to no fuel delivery. I've found that with a slurp (technical measure) of fuel dropped down the carby, the vehicle starts and then the pump takes over.

    Unfortunately, the problem is not cured completely, as the pump wont draw from the left hand tank even after countless removals of fuel lines and compressor applications to said lines. Not sure where I go from here except to only use the right hand tank.
    Numpty

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  7. #47
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    If you have blown all the pipes through, then the only thing I can think of is an Air Lock in a loop or some such.

  8. #48
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    Likely an air leak rather than an air lock. The sneaky one is a pinhole in the pickup pipe in the tank, above the fuel level, but perhaps the most common is the gasket for the sediment bowl attached to the pump.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

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