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Thread: Replacing mechanical fuel pump with electric on 2.25 petrol engine

  1. #1
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    Replacing mechanical fuel pump with electric on 2.25 petrol engine

    Hi All,

    I have decided I will make this change, and I was wondering if there's an official Land Rover part for blanking the hole where the mechanical fuel pump sits ?

    Any help appreciated.

    Thanks
    John

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnboyLandy View Post
    Hi All,

    I have decided I will make this change, and I was wondering if there's an official Land Rover part for blanking the hole where the mechanical fuel pump sits ?

    Any help appreciated.

    Thanks
    John
    John,

    The short answer is that there is - but the slightly longer answer is that you will probably not find one in this country.

    The 2.5 litre engine that was fitted to the early County models, but generally not sold here, had electric pumps. The aperture on the block where the mechanical pump normally sits is blanked off with a metal plate that uses the same five bolt holes as the pump.

    I bought the plate off a wreck in Zimbabwe a few years ago but they are not that common. I tried to get another one for someone in South Africa recently and none of the usual suspects had any of the 2.5 blocks in stock.

    You could easily make one but be careful to get the thickness right if you want to use the existing mounting bolts from a mechanical pump.

    Cheers,

    Neil
    1975 S3 88" - Ratel

  3. #3
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    Thanks Neil.

    I think I'll have a go at manufacturing one, and maybe even mount the electric pump on it too.

    I presume if I don't cover the hole, there'll be oil splashing out and/or crud getting in ??

    Cheers,
    John

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnboyLandy View Post
    Thanks Neil.

    I think I'll have a go at manufacturing one, and maybe even mount the electric pump on it too.

    I presume if I don't cover the hole, there'll be oil splashing out and/or crud getting in ??

    Cheers,
    John
    correct.

    10mm aluminium plate is perfect for the job.

    buy the gasket goto an ally place aske them to cut it, if you get a good place they will be able to lazer cut it for you.

    bonus is... you need the gasket anyway.....

    the cheap nasty way is to just pull the pump and cut the arm off then put the pump back on.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
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  5. #5
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    Hi John.
    what type of pump did you get. Link Please.
    What is your reason for changing from mechanical pump ????
    Kits are cheap and pump easy to service.
    What do others suggest.
    Thanks.

    whitehillbilly

  6. #6
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    I fitted an SU electric pump that I had on the shelf & bolted it to a chassis cross-member & just teed the suction & supply pipes in. It is handy, because when my 2A stands without regular use the check valves in the mechanical pump leak back & it loses it's prime. Then the engine has to be turned over for long periods to get fuel to the Carby. The Hand Primer is such a **** of a thing to get to & operate IMHO.

    So a permanent cable from the pump is applied to the battery terminal to energise the pump until it fills to the carby. Starts fine & even better after replacing the press button starter switch. Now instantaneous.

    Seems these mech. pumps are prone to losing prime with leaky check-valves & mine has been overhauled twice in my ownership so I gave up & use the SU when needed.
    The rest of the time during normal operation the mechanical pump does the work.

    Job done.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by S3ute View Post
    John,

    The short answer is that there is - but the slightly longer answer is that you will probably not find one in this country.

    The 2.5 litre engine that was fitted to the early County models, but generally not sold here, had electric pumps. The aperture on the block where the mechanical pump normally sits is blanked off with a metal plate that uses the same five bolt holes as the pump.

    I bought the plate off a wreck in Zimbabwe a few years ago but they are not that common. I tried to get another one for someone in South Africa recently and none of the usual suspects had any of the 2.5 blocks in stock.

    You could easily make one but be careful to get the thickness right if you want to use the existing mounting bolts from a mechanical pump.

    Cheers,

    Neil
    Hello again.

    If you decide to go down the road of making a blanking plate, then you have two basic options. This is because the existing pump mounting to the block has two components a plate that fixes to the side of the block, and the mounting face of the pump itself.

    The first is to make a plate that replicates the mounting face of the fuel pump. The second is to replicate the plate on the block without (obviously) the access aperture.

    This can be seen in the attached photos. The second photo is the plate that I got off the wreck in Zimbabwe.

    Cheers,

    Neil

    Fuel_pump1.jpgZimbabwe_Nov_2014_52.jpg
    1975 S3 88" - Ratel

  8. #8
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    G'day All,
    If you fit an electric fuel pump make sure you also fit a safety cutout switch/ relay that operates from engine oil pressure.
    In the event of a collision or rollover and engine stops if the fuel pump is still able to run you will have a fire risk with fuel being pumped.
    (Classic Morris Minor SU electric fuel pump fires.) So no oil pressure, electric fuel pump will not run.
    Plenty of after market oil pressure switches available.
    Chris

  9. #9
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    Why? If the mechanical pump is working leave it alone. If you are getting vapour lock then track down the cause and eliminate it.
    URSUSMAJOR

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Busted Syncro View Post
    G'day All,
    If you fit an electric fuel pump make sure you also fit a safety cutout switch/ relay that operates from engine oil pressure.
    In the event of a collision or rollover and engine stops if the fuel pump is still able to run you will have a fire risk with fuel being pumped.
    (Classic Morris Minor SU electric fuel pump fires.) So no oil pressure, electric fuel pump will not run.
    Plenty of after market oil pressure switches available.
    Chris
    Remember with this setup, what will also be needed is an appropriate way to run the electric fuel pump before and while starting so fuel is available before oil pressure build up. Like part of 'watchdog' setup I have on tractors and have yet to get around to installing on Land Rover 300Tdi's. Includes oil pressure switch which has some adjustment that switches on when oil pressure is about 10 psi or above. (Opposite of the type for low oil pressure light which comes on while there is no or low oil pressure) On older injector pumps without an electric solenoid cutoff, have a fuel solenoid between secondary fuel filter and injector pump. Also a push button which is held in to keep the fuel solenoid open when starting until oil pressure builds up. If oil pressure drops below what switch opens at for any reason, is no power to fuel solenoid which then closes and stops engine. Basically this is protection against 'blowing up" motor from running out of oil. A push button would also be the simplest relatively "idiot proof" setup for starting a motor with electric fuel pump fitted. ie Not left switched on unintentially.

    Worth noting other parts in my "watchdog" setups are 105 degree temperature switches which are closed at lower temperatures on cylinder heads. Power to fuel solenoid also goes through one of these. So if head gets to 105 degrees for any reason, no power to solenoid and motor stops ( when solenoid before and not in injector pump, more slowly as it starves for fuel.) With push button (or an emergency on of switch which idiots may leave on and defeat protective function), the motor could be kept running for a short time as head should tolerate significantly more than 105 degrees before damage occurs. eg To drive vehicle or machine to a suitable parking spot nearby. Is important to note that this setup offers protection against the head overheating from any cause. Also, if something goes wrong with the protection setup itself such as a wire becoming disconnected, motor stops. Some other safety devices offer only limited protection, eg against low water level. Also with some, if malfunction such as wire coming off and power is needed to operate warning device or stop motor, it will not provide protection it is supposed to.

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