Thread of swivel drain plug ?

Annealing copper makes it softer.

Heat until JUST cherry red then let cool.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JohnboyLandy

Hey Colin, what to mean by "anneal" it ? How and why ??

Thanks
John

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John,

Details in post #14

Most metals 'work harden'. As they are rolled, stamped etc. they get harder, annealing softens them.

I've found that most LR copper washers have been supplied dead hard and don't work well as a 'seal'. I always anneal new copper washers.

If you read up on LR history and/or watch the video on Arthur Goddard the aluminium chosen for making the Land Rover bodywork was available 1/4 hard, 1/2 hard etc. If you are going to work it you want it softer, if there is very little work going to be done on it you want it supplied in a harder state.

My Defender sump washer is about 20 years old, I anneal it every oil change (I always forget to order a washer when I'm doing an oil change).
Years ago I got an overhaul kit for the brake master cylinder on my Series I, the end cap uses a large copper washer to seal. Bloody thing leaked so I annealed the old washer and re-fitted and 12 or so years later it's still OK.

Annealing (metallurgy) - Wikipedia



Colin

Got it - thanks Colin.

Cheers,
John

Seems the copper washers I bought from roverparts are not 100% copper. They seem to have a grey material like rubber in them, first pic shows front and back, and second pic shows what happened to it after I heated it and the grey stuff turned to white powder.

I guess I shouldn't be annealing these ?

Any suggestions ?

Thanks
Johnhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...16acfb5ba2.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...82d80f0367.jpg

No.
Crush type, available from most Auto shops.
As they compress, the close up ID.
Not annealable.

whitehillbilly

Thanks Shane, do they go on either way ? If not which way ?

Thanks
John

Think they go either way ?

Yes.