Originally Posted by
JohnboyLandy
Hey Colin, what to mean by "anneal" it ? How and why ??
Thanks
John
John,
Details in post #14
Most metals 'work harden'. As they are rolled, stamped etc. they get harder, annealing softens them.
I've found that most LR copper washers have been supplied dead hard and don't work well as a 'seal'. I always anneal new copper washers.
If you read up on LR history and/or watch the video on Arthur Goddard the aluminium chosen for making the Land Rover bodywork was available 1/4 hard, 1/2 hard etc. If you are going to work it you want it softer, if there is very little work going to be done on it you want it supplied in a harder state.
My Defender sump washer is about 20 years old, I anneal it every oil change (I always forget to order a washer when I'm doing an oil change).
Years ago I got an overhaul kit for the brake master cylinder on my Series I, the end cap uses a large copper washer to seal. Bloody thing leaked so I annealed the old washer and re-fitted and 12 or so years later it's still OK.
Annealing (metallurgy) - Wikipedia
Colin
'56 Series 1 with homemade welder
'65 Series IIa Dormobile
'70 SIIa GS
'76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
'81 SIII FFR
'95 Defender Tanami
'58 Series II (sold)
Motorcycles :-
Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C
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