It's a split seal that bolts into place.
Not sure how readily available they are.
Colin
After seeing a few oil drops on the garage floor I have decided to change the rear oil seal.
Pulled the engine out, rotated it and pulled off the sump and rear bearing cap.
No seal at all!
The split seal retainers were in place and OK.
What I can’t see is how the retainers I have will pull up to the block face with the seal as there is an oil slinger type flange on the crankshaft about 1/8” from the block face.
Also I see the 2ltr motor doesn’t have a seal, only the split retainer. Could a P.O. have put a 2ltr split retainer in as I see they are different part numbers from the 2.25l?
Your thoughts.
It's a split seal that bolts into place.
Not sure how readily available they are.
Colin
'56 Series 1 with homemade welder
'65 Series IIa Dormobile
'70 SIIa GS
'76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
'81 SIII FFR
'95 Defender Tanami
'58 Series II (sold)
Motorcycles :-
Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C
Thanks Colin
I have a Britpart one available but can’t see how it can fit with the flange there - that’s my problem. What I don’t want to do is force it in and do any damage.
'56 Series 1 with homemade welder
'65 Series IIa Dormobile
'70 SIIa GS
'76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
'81 SIII FFR
'95 Defender Tanami
'58 Series II (sold)
Motorcycles :-
Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C
I have installed a new rear seal with the rods still connected to the crankshaft. I think i may have had the timing cover off at the time and with the cover off you will have enough room to move the crankshaft up and away from the rear bearing just enough to be able to slide the seal on. Then join the seal up and put the spring on. I recall having trouble with the seal retainer bolts, you may have to put the block seal retainer in place before lowering the crank back down.
Yue may need to have the cap seal retainer attached before putting the rear bearing cap back on. Tighten the retainer bolts after the bearing cap is torqued down.
I put the join in the rear seal at the top ( towards cylinder head ) as this is the least likely place for oil to leak and the spring join at 90 degrees to this.
I hope this helps
Ian
Bittern
Thanks for the detailed reply Ian.
I have ordered a new seal set today (incl the split seal retainer) - hopefully as a matched set it will go together easier.
Parts manuals show a seal with a single cut in split retainers for the 2.25 & 2.6
Then I found that, as you mentioned, the Series I used a seal like yours 275807 - Crankshaft Rear Oil Retainer Seal 1955 - 58
It's a seal bonded into the split retainer so someone had used a seal from a late 2.0 litre on your motor. No problem with that while it still sealed OK.
Interestingly there is a garter spring on the crank but this seal doesn't use a garter spring ?? Must have been left over from the seal it replaced ??
Colin
'56 Series 1 with homemade welder
'65 Series IIa Dormobile
'70 SIIa GS
'76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
'81 SIII FFR
'95 Defender Tanami
'58 Series II (sold)
Motorcycles :-
Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C
Hi again Colin
I put the spring on there - just looking at how it all goes together. I think you are right - the split seal retainers might be from a 2L motor, but not having anything to compare it with I have ordered the matched set.
I’ll let you know how I go.
That explains the garter spring !
They are not split seal 'retainers' on the 2 litre motor they are actually a split seal bonded into a split housing.
A simple design with no garter spring to 'energise' the seal. Worked OK at the time but maybe minor leakage was more acceptable/expected back then. I've never touched the seal on my Series I, I get the odd dribble (happens as everything gets older) but not enough to worry about.
The early 1.6 motor didn't have a seal at all. There was scroll machined on the crank journal (like a thread), as the crank rotated the scroll forced the oil into the motor. But park with the nose of the vehicle raised enough and engine switched off and the oil could trickle past the scroll.
Worked OK in the Rover sedan the engine came from but ended up getting changed to a split seal later on for the Land Rover.
Colin
'56 Series 1 with homemade welder
'65 Series IIa Dormobile
'70 SIIa GS
'76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
'81 SIII FFR
'95 Defender Tanami
'58 Series II (sold)
Motorcycles :-
Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C
Hi Colin
I know the ‘thread’ system of oil seal you are describing- I had an 1911 EMF in my early years and that had a total loss oil system. It used the reverse thread - the problem was when in reverse the oil was encouraged to leak!
Great fun!
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