Thanks for the extra replies guys.
Cheers,
John
That should work, although the barb may be a bit low - the original tap was higher to allow the tap to be fitted or removed without removing the rocker cover. And the hoses are usually 1/2".
Mine has a gate valve and a nipple to go in the block and a barb for the hose. Gate valve available from any rural supplies shop.
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
Thanks for the extra replies guys.
Cheers,
John
When I acquired my Series 2, its Smiths heater installation done when late relative long term owner had it included some details I did not like. Firstly it had a cable operated type valve that did not have any cable attached. After cleaning and tidying this up, I noticed that in full on position it still significantly restricted relative to the flow in the standard half inch ID heater hoses used. So first improvement to heater function was dispense with this tap and re connect hoses Resulting in better flow of hot water.
Subsequent modifications using gate valves are a separate story. One of many repairs and modifications done while I had head off to replace blown gasket was to bore and tap the heater water outlet and return. Changed them from 3/8"" - 19 TPI BSP ie Threads Per Inch British Standard Pipe (where the nominal size describes approximate diameter of bore. Not outer diameter of threaded section) to 1/2""-14TPI BSP. Main reason to provide enough flow for a second heater. Using 3/4"ID pipe and hose connected to these fittings. Have worked out plan and done most of plumbing for one on right side of brake pedal box to direct hot air to drivers feet. Should be handy when they regularly get wet and cold walking around outside vehicle. Looks like half inch ID heater hoses can be put down hollow section in firewall from left to right-side and back. Heater will also then warm top of firewall in process. This is in addition to the existing circular Smiths heater which appears an aftermarket one with small differences to those used by Land Rover in the UK at least.
Until at least the 1960s few cars in Australia had heaters, certainly these were not standard on any Holden, Ford, or Chrysler cars. As a result, circular recirculating heaters like the ones fitted to Series 1,2,2a were readily available for aftermarket fitting, especially in Tasmania and Victoria. These were either the same Smiths ones, or a variety of copies.
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
Ok guys, I did a bit more work on the heater today, I got a new 3 speed motor installed in my Smith's round heater and made up a harness for the three position switch. I also have it mounted on the firewall and made up the earth and power cables.
Next will be the water connection, and todays question. I have the 3/8 threaded barbs to take water to/from the engine as shown in the pic. Do I need any kind of washer on the thread ? Like one of those fibre type ones, or does the tapered thread seal it ? Or do I perhaps need anything like stag on the thread ?
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
John
Tapered threads seal on the taper. Good practice is to add some 'Stag' or similar sealant, or even teflon tape, but brass in cast iron will seal pretty well without. A washer will not help, as the fitting will not tighten onto it.
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
Great, thanks John.
Cheers
John
Also, just to check the water connections, as per the pics circled in red - can someone confirm please. That's for a S2a 2.25 petrol engine.
Heater water connection front.jpgHeater water connection rear.jpg
Thanks
John
Yes.
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
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