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Thread: Front Stub Axle Replacement Quality

  1. #1
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    Front Stub Axle Replacement Quality

    Greetings all,

    Does anybody have any experience with the quality of new aftermarket front stub axles (part number 599827)? I'm trying to use the philosophy of "if it moves, keep it genuine". Stub axles are a bit of an edge case in my opinion.

    I have one original in good condition, and another in OK condition. I'm debating whether it's worth the effort of replacing the seal seats on the two originals, or whether simply replacing them is easier.

    Keeping in mind the forum rules, please PM me if you've had bad experiences.

    Thanks in advance,
    Martin
    "Serenity" 1964 Series IIA 109" ̶P̶e̶t̶r̶o̶l̶ 300 Tdi - under restoration
    "Kaylee" 1953 Series I 80" - waiting patiently

  2. #2
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    About 8 years ago I overhauled the complete front axle assembly and rear hubs on a 1992 Range Rover LSE (which is virtually identical to the Series Landrover setup in concept and component types) and ended up going genuine as all but a few of the aftermarket components, including hubs, were decidedly dodgy. Personally, I would try to overhaul and reuse what original bits you have and try to get genuine where necessary. But I'd do a good search of UK sites and forums as you may find various hard to get parts that have been made up in special runs for restorers.
    2013 D4 expedition equipped
    1966 Army workshop trailer
    (previously SII 2.25 swb, SIII 2.25 swb & lwb, P38 Vogue, 1993 LSE 3.9V8 then HS2.8)

  3. #3
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    Front Stub Axle Replacement Quality

    I share that philosophy! In the first instance I’d try to seek out a good original one, second hand, as this might be better than a pattern part. I’d think that most of the “Series” members on here would have a box of them in their sheds. Cheers, Matt

    Quote Originally Posted by turkeybrain View Post
    Greetings all,

    Does anybody have any experience with the quality of new aftermarket front stub axles (part number 599827)? I'm trying to use the philosophy of "if it moves, keep it genuine". Stub axles are a bit of an edge case in my opinion.

    I have one original in good condition, and another in OK condition. I'm debating whether it's worth the effort of replacing the seal seats on the two originals, or whether simply replacing them is easier.

    Keeping in mind the forum rules, please PM me if you've had bad experiences.

    Thanks in advance,
    Martin

  4. #4
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    Two out of two responses align with my own thinking. I guess I'd best buy some distance pieces then.

    I've remembered to take another look at the ones I have on hand tonight, turns out I've only got one which may be worth using. The other has more rust inside it than is acceptable. To be fair, I got the axle for free and it's rendered a lot of useful parts, so I can't complain.

    The only issue with living in Tassie is Bass Strait. It makes getting parts that bit more difficult.











    Cheers,
    Martin
    "Serenity" 1964 Series IIA 109" ̶P̶e̶t̶r̶o̶l̶ 300 Tdi - under restoration
    "Kaylee" 1953 Series I 80" - waiting patiently

  5. #5
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    I believe the new ones are one-piece, the 'distance piece' cannot be replaced.
    .W.

  6. #6
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    Talking about all Series Landrovers, be aware that wheel bearings and stub axles changed in late Series 3 production. So make sure you know what you have (it may not be what it left the factory with) and what you are getting.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  7. #7
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    Thanks John,

    I need to double check that. I'm planning to swap to M16 wheel hubs taken from S3 Salisbury axles of unknown provenance (they are both 4.7:1 ratio, so not from a Stage 1). I'd seen mention of a change, but thought it was a Stage 1 thing rather than a production date thing. Looks like they went from imperial bearings (RTC3534 is the bearing kit, uses stub axle 599827) to metric (RTC3537 bearing kit, FRC3925 stub axle). I'll inspect the bearings I removed carefully.

    Good catch!

    Cheers,
    Martin
    "Serenity" 1964 Series IIA 109" ̶P̶e̶t̶r̶o̶l̶ 300 Tdi - under restoration
    "Kaylee" 1953 Series I 80" - waiting patiently

  8. #8
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    Others opinions may differ, but those don’t look too bad in the pics and may well clean up nicely. So long as there is no damage to the surfaces that the bearings sit on, the hub nut threads are fine, and the mating face where the gasket goes isn’t damaged, a new distance piece and some careful wire wheel work should have them looking a lot better. All those bits with surface rust sit in grease and oil once reassembled, clean them up and they’re not likely to get any worse.

    Quote Originally Posted by turkeybrain View Post
    Thanks John,

    I need to double check that. I'm planning to swap to M16 wheel hubs taken from S3 Salisbury axles of unknown provenance (they are both 4.7:1 ratio, so not from a Stage 1). I'd seen mention of a change, but thought it was a Stage 1 thing rather than a production date thing. Looks like they went from imperial bearings (RTC3534 is the bearing kit, uses stub axle 599827) to metric (RTC3537 bearing kit, FRC3925 stub axle). I'll inspect the bearings I removed carefully.

    Good catch!

    Cheers,
    Martin

  9. #9
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    Stub axle replacement

    Just a quick note before you discard the rusted component you may want to try electrolysis to clean up the parts it may save you some effort. I am including a YouTube link to an Australian site where you can learn about electrolysis and a handy recipe for home made rust converter as used by the Australian army for their vehicles.

    Electrolysis, citric acid cleaning & homemade rust convertor for landrover restoration. - YouTube

    Hope this helps

  10. #10
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    I'd stick with the original, possibly replace the seal collar.

    Beware of the term 'genuine' when buying parts, along with OEM, OEM quality etc.
    I don't think many (if any) of the original suppliers would still be making/supplying parts. Genuine might mean sourced from Land Rover but where do they get it from ??

    I usually hit the stub axle with a wire brush in an angle grinder.
    Removing the seal collar is reasonably easy, drill a hole part way through from the side & split with a chisel. They don't seem to be that hard and the chisel normally opens them enough that the collar will then fall off.


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    '58 Series II (sold)
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C

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