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Thread: Sealing transfer case

  1. #1
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    Sealing transfer case

    Hi all, does anyone have experience with sealing up transfer cases with an aftermarket aluminium sump? The instructions that came with it said it doesn't need a gasket, but I figured the mating surface on the transfer case was unlikely to be flat, so I fitted a gasket anyway (with sealing compound, of course).

    Predictably, it's leaking. Would I be insane to remove the studs and try flattening the surface with a large sanding float that fits across the transfer case? Machining would be the gold standard but that's a huge amount of work for a leak.

    I'm thinking of trying it just with sealing compound, does anyone have recommendations re. anaerobic, hard-drying vs. flexible, etc? I'd also appreciate any tips for not getting the compound contaminated with oil, it seems like it drips forever from the low side. Is it worth roughing up the mating surfaces slightly?

  2. #2
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    In the past I have used both a good quality full setting sealant such as Loctite 510 / 515 on timing cover and side plates of engines and transmissions. The other alternative is a good quality RTV but it can squeeze into the internals of gearbox or worse still the motor if it is used too liberally. The Loctite doesn’t displace into the internals as readily and if it does it will go out with the next oil change it is supposed to mix with the lubricant.
    I used it on many engine rebuilds when I worked on heavy diesels and never had an issue sealing, it does stick like glue so when you have to remove the part it will be very difficult to separate the components.

  3. #3
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    Sealing transfer case

    Hi there, which aluminium sump do you have? Is it a Global Roamer one? These generally come with a gasket and new bolts.

    Is there a chance that your aluminium sump itself could be warped? To my mind that’s more likely than the mating surface on the transfer housing…

    Quote Originally Posted by WhatIsClocks View Post
    Hi all, does anyone have experience with sealing up transfer cases with an aftermarket aluminium sump? The instructions that came with it said it doesn't need a gasket, but I figured the mating surface on the transfer case was unlikely to be flat, so I fitted a gasket anyway (with sealing compound, of course).

    Predictably, it's leaking. Would I be insane to remove the studs and try flattening the surface with a large sanding float that fits across the transfer case? Machining would be the gold standard but that's a huge amount of work for a leak.

    I'm thinking of trying it just with sealing compound, does anyone have recommendations re. anaerobic, hard-drying vs. flexible, etc? I'd also appreciate any tips for not getting the compound contaminated with oil, it seems like it drips forever from the low side. Is it worth roughing up the mating surfaces slightly?

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gippslander View Post
    In the past I have used both a good quality full setting sealant such as Loctite 510 / 515 on timing cover and side plates of engines and transmissions. The other alternative is a good quality RTV but it can squeeze into the internals of gearbox or worse still the motor if it is used too liberally.
    Thanks - I think Loctite 515 would be the go. I don't suppose you have any tips on how to get the thing to stop dripping oil and avoid contaminating the uncured sealant?


    Quote Originally Posted by drfish View Post
    Hi there, which aluminium sump do you have? Is it a Global Roamer one? These generally come with a gasket and new bolts.

    Is there a chance that your aluminium sump itself could be warped? To my mind that’s more likely than the mating surface on the transfer housing…
    I don't think so. It's a Wootz sump, but I may as well check when I have it off. It looked freshly machined when I got it, and it leaked straight after installation. It came with new bolts (which I haven't used because I don't think it'd make a difference), but the instructions say a gasket is optional.

  5. #5
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    I use 515. Great product.

    whitehillbilly

  6. #6
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    Thanks for the input everyone. I don't suppose people have opinions/experience on whether to use a gasket and how to stop the oil dripping during the curing process?

  7. #7
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    I would leave the pan off overnight and let it drip out into a pan, then have the new plate ready with the sealant on it. Give the lower side of the case a good wipe out and apply the plate immediately. It shouldn't contaminate the sealant by the time you have it secured. On tightening the bolts i used an inch pound torque wrench set at 84" pounds on both the transfer case and engine sump. You could go to Supercheap or Repco and purchase hard gasket material and manufacture your own gasket. It was common years ago to make gaskets for vehicle's here in the country areas as we didn't have access to bought components at a moments notice. A good pair of scissors and a ball from an old bearing welded to a bolt did the trick. The ball was used to punch out the holes then cut the perimeter with the scissors.
    Good luck.

  8. #8
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    'You could go to Supercheap or Repco and purchase hard gasket material and manufacture your own gasket'
    Or Buy you Partner a Brother Scan and Cut machine for Christmas. 
    Mine already has one.
    Once scanned it gets added to a Land Rover File on Her Laptop, with common name and Part number.
    If I need a Gasket, I give her the part Number or common name and one is Cut on Gasket paper. I have sheets of different thickness, from Repco.
    The Zenith 316V Carby Gasket, took a couple of Tweaks to get right.
    Her Machine is big enough to do Diff housing and Engine sump gaskets.
    No, she doesn't have a sister........

    whitehillbilly

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