101 Clutch Fun

[101RRS]

Well my clutch packed it in a week ago - initially hoped it was the slave cylinder which I got resleeved but wasn't to be so easy and the clutch was still dead.

The only place I have to work is on my driveway which is on a slope. I managed to jack the 101 up at the front so I could get it onto ramps. I also decided to let the rear tyres down to try and get the 101 level to enable the engine crane to slide in the tray. Note the front tyres 35psi then note the rear tyres 0 psi - hence the no bagging of tyres when I let them down a bit to go offroad or on the sand.


Gearbox is out and the front looks OK - I might take the front off and replace oil seals and check the oil pump.


The clutch itself looks good and seems to be relatively new with little wear on the fingers.


Now the damage - the thrust bearing looks like it has seized and then spun with the clutch and chewed/melted out the plastic housing - old parts on the left - new ones on the right.


The hole - it is a pain to get the box out because of the PTO to the winch but at least I can use an engine hoist from above.


And the left exhaust manifold must have had a crack in it as it broke as soon as I jiggled the exhaust pipe.


Luckily I have a spare manifold in my spares. The question is can it be done in place or the engine removed - anyone with a 101 replaced the manifold in place??? Access to the front is OK through the access hatch in the front wheel well but the rear studs look a bit tight.

Garry

[101 Ron]

I have done my LHS manifold with no problems.
The hardest part is making certain that the gaskets are the correct way around.
That break on the manifold looks like a fresh one and not a old crack.
It could be worse .....you could be working on another model Landy where access is not so good.
I believe you have two choices in refitting the transmission in removing the bottom off the tranfercase and refitting it later for the PTO drive ...or removing the winch.
Peter P may have some tips.
might be possiible slide in the drive whisle refitting with a extra set of hands.
I wonder why the throw out bearing failed the way it did.

[bee utey]

I wonder why the throw out bearing failed the way it did.

Would this hole have anything to do with it?
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...1/P1040934.jpg

[101RRS]

Would this hole have anything to do with it?
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...1/P1040934.jpg

Haha - No - the water is still a good 6-10" below the clutch. Also there was no evidence of dirt or water in the bell housing or surface rust on the pressure plate.

Ron, I took the pto off the transfer case and will take to opportunity to fix a couple of leaks. As I am doing all this work on my lonesome, I figured it would be too hard to get the winch back up. One or the other does have to come out to get the box out and the pto from the tfr case is easiest.

The manifold does have some old fatigue cracks on the underside.

The pressure plate is in as new condition and friction plate is only about 1/4 worn so it has been replaced recently (in km terms). The only reason that I can think for the thrust bearing failing is that it was not replaced when the clutch was last done and with it sitting for 8 years before I got it maybe corrosion had set in - but as said inside the bellhousing it has been very dry and clean.

While the current clutch is good I have decided to to put a new one in - already bought it - and I will keep the old for an emergency spare.

Garry

[101RRS]

The exhaust manifold was so easy to get out - about 10 mins. There were no gaskets on it and it looks like silastic was used - seems to have worked well as there was only one spot where there appears to have been blow buy and it sealed itself with a little carbon.

The reassembly begins - doing the engine main oil seal but the old one does look OK - the little bit of oil that leaks seems to be coming from the sump gasket but I will do that another day.

Garry

[101RRS]

The exhaust manifold is back in - a lot harder to get it back than get it out. A stud or two to help line things up would be helpful.

I have put the new friction and pressure plate in and all seemed to be going well until a neighbour dropped by for a bit of sledging - he is in the Landrover Club but drives a Troopy. He said that he thought that the pressure plate fingers were too flat and should be protruding out a bit. Well that got me worried so I pulled it off again to check things out. Seemed to be all together OK - friction plate correct way around.

So what do people think.

This is the old pressure plate still in place - the fingers do stick out a little.


This is the new pressure in place before tightening things up - the fingers stick out a little


This is the new pressure plate with everything tensioned up - friction plate is the correct way around and the fingers are neither in or out


It has been nearly 20 years since I have changed a clutch and from what I remember the fingers did always stick out a bit when the pressure plate was tensioned up.

Thanks

Garry

[Bearman]

Gary, That doesn't look right. The diaphram fingers should not be in that position. Are you dead certain the friction plate is the correct way. If so I would be taking the pressure plate off and measuring and comparing it with the old pressure plate. ...Brian

[bee utey]

Looks right to me, when it wears it will soon be standing outwards. This is why a new clutch is so nice, the clutch over centres quickly when you depress the pedal.

[101RRS]

Thanks Brian - looked odd to me as well and I did pull it back off - friction plate is the correct way around.

Cheers
Garry

[101RRS]

Looks right to me, when it wears it will soon be standing outwards. This is why a new clutch is so nice, the clutch over centres quickly when you depress the pedal.

Great - thanks for that - I guess if it doesn't work - I now have someone to blame .

Advice appreciated.

Garry