Broken Wheel Stud........

[jerryd]

While swapping wheels around I've managed to break a wheel stud on the rear
I'm in the process of trying to remove the brake drum so I can fit a new one, a quick question ?? Do I have to remove the rear wheel bearing to get the drum off ?? If not, what is the secret as I cannot seem to budge it

Vehicle is an '85 County with maxi drive axle/flanges..........thanks

[Rosco]

Have you updone the countersunk metal threads that go through the drum (1 from memory, but there may be 2) ??
If so, then I'd expect the shoes may be binding on the inside of the drum and you may need to back them off a tad.

[JDNSW]

Should be two countersunk screws you will need to remove. There is a third hole that is tapped into the drum, and allows you to screw a bolt in to push the drum off - same thread as the screws that hold the drum on, 3/8W from memory. You will need to back off the shoes before trying to get the drum off.

John

[jerryd]

Thanks for the tips, I've got the new stud in place just putting all back together

Am I right in thinking the bearings are lubricated by the diff oil and require no grease ??

[jerryd]

I've put everything back together, but after pulling out the axle slightly to put the circlip/flange back on, the rear axle seems jammed the wheel will only go maybe quarter turn either way.

It's not the brake on too tight as when the flange nuts are removed the wheel spins freely .............so what have I done wrong ?? has something dropped out of place in the diff ?? The rear axle is maxi drive with locker.

looks like it may be a long night

[JDNSW]

Bearings are lubricated from the diff on that model, assuming it is original.

The wheel will not turn if the other wheel is on the ground and the handbrake is on or it is in gear or the centre diff is locked. If the lockable diff is locked, the same applies even if the other wheel is off the ground.

Fortunately, with the salisbury diff, you can remove the cover plate at the back to see what is going on (drain the oil first or it will be messy).

John

[jerryd]

Thanks John, I've put it all back together again and took it off the jack.On starting the vehicle the locker light was illuminated but then went out, so how that happened is a bit of a mystery.

Vehicle drove fine , but now I need to adjust the rear brake again.Also looks like new shoes are required, although I'm considering a disc brake conversion on the rear as I've never been too happy with the brakes on this vehicle. What are your thoughts ??

[JDNSW]

I have been quite happy with the drum brakes on mine, although I have replaced the linings twice for one set of front pads. But note that the rear brakes need to be adjusted every service. They may only need one notch on one shoe, but it is still worth doing, and makes a significant difference. The major advantage of discs is the lack of routine maintenance, and, if you do a lot of wading, the fact that they do not fade when wet. Actual braking effectiveness is likely to be indistinguishable. Before going to discs, I would look, for example, at the level of vacuum you have, and any air leaks that mean you are not getting the proper vacuum to the booster.

John

[jerryd]

I'd prefer to keep the original drums, so maybe I'll get a complete brake overhaul done first and take it from there.

Will the garage check the vacuum / booster if requested ?? even they said the brakes were quite below standard and needed some investigating.

[JDNSW]

I'd prefer to keep the original drums, so maybe I'll get a complete brake overhaul done first and take it from there.

Will the garage check the vacuum / booster if requested ?? even they said the brakes were quite below standard and needed some investigating.

They should, but perhaps you could take it to a brake specialist, preferably one that has been around long enough to be quite at home with drums.

John