ND Filter - What to get?

[WhiteD3]

Next purchase in the photography line will be ND filters for my Canon 18-200mm and new Sigma 10-20mm.

Having never used an ND filter (but having been caught without one more than once recently) I've no real idea re what to get so some advice would be appreciated.

I was thinking (for no real reason other than it is very bright on the beach here in summer) of a Hoya NDx4 (2 stops) but I see they do a x2 and x8 as well.

Also, I see on ebay some adjustable ND filters by H&Y but I couldn't find the manufacturer's site to do some research. Are these any good?

Cheers.

[dmdigital]

You are best off going for known brand ND's like B+W, Hoya, Tiffen, etc. The main reason to avoid the eBay specials is they may not be colour neutral unless you know what you are getting. That said some of the cheap ones can be OK.

The best to buy IMO are Sing-Ray and B+W. Hoya and others are good but the B+W for example are a brass ring and don't tend to bind on to the lens.

Putting any filters on an 18-200 or 10-20 is a challenge as at the wide angle you will potentially get visible interference from the filter's mounting ring. For this reason you may need to look at the low profile filters or the better option is a larger diameter filter and a step-down ring.

Either way always buy filters to fit you largest lens mount and then use step down rings for the smaller lens mounts (with in reason).

Do you have a CPL filter? If not I would recommend this first over an ND. Especially for the beach.

As for what ND to get...

Look at what you are shooting. Is it only the sky that is usually blown highlights? Then you are best looking at Graduated ND's
Is the whole scene or various parts? OK if you had metered on those areas how brighter are they - 2 stops, 4 stops, 6 stops?

Where I am 6 stop is fine and a 2 stop is almost useless. Down in Tassie a 2 stop would be much more usable.

They are also additive, so if you stack a 2 stop and a 4 stop its the same as a 6 stop.

Basically a 2 stop filter means that if you wanted to shoot an image at 1/100 f/11 then with the filter you could shoot at 1/30 f/11 or 1/100 f/5.6, as either are 2 stops lower.

ND's are also very useful for getting that nice slow effect for water. A 1/30 f/11 shot with a 6 stop ND becomes a 2" f/11 shot with a tripod and remote shutter release.

[WhiteD3]

Do you have a CPL filter? If not I would recommend this first over an ND

I do but to be honest I find it (Hoya) annoying as unless I'm looking at a bright sky I have trouble working out where max polarizing is as there's no markings on the ring. It's a practice thing that I need to get in and do!

[dmdigital]

CPL's don't have markings as it depends on where you are facing. So what's polarized in one direction isn't always going to be in the other direction. I've always had trouble telling by looking. This is how I overcome it:

Watch the light metering.

That's all! Simple... As you rotate you will see either the metering rise or fall or if in Program, Aperture or Shutter priority modes then the Shutter speed or Aperture will change. In all cases you want the one that's letting that little bit less light in.

Of course if you are looking in to water, you will see the reflections disappear to indicate when it's working.

[slug_burner]

Unless you are specifically after long shutter speeds and with specific ISO speed settings then an ND filter went out with film. Digital SLRs give you the ability to play with shutter and ISO settings that you should be able to get around the benefit of a ND filter. A graduated ND filter that is a different thing as you can stop whasing out the sky and expose for your subject below the sky.

Really wide angle lenses are difficult to fit with filters in front of the lens. However I doubt that your average lens will have a draw for the filters between the camera and lense so you are stuck with screw on lenses or slide on types in front of the lens.

Spend your money on a tripod or a good flash instead.

[Chucaro]

If you do not have the money to get the Sig-Ray look into the Lee and the Higtech.
Both of them do not change the colors of the images (color cast) and you can get a set of them HERE
Cheers

[C0L0N3L]

Obviously it depends what your doing, but if you going to stop down the light with filters don't get a threaded filter, go Cokin filters (you'll probably be on a tripod 90% of the time anyway, so shouldnt have to worry about damaging them)

As for what rating. Id say at least ND8, but you would be better with a ND400

ND8 = 3 stops
ND400 = 9 stops

Couple a ND400 with a ND4 grad and you've got a pretty awesome setup for sunrise/sunset stuff.

Thats what I'll be getting after I get a wide angle that doesn't rotate the front element when focusing.

[Chucaro]

The good thing with the Lee and the Higtech is that they are very big and you can hold them by hand in the position that you like.
You save money if you do not get the holders for each lens.

[dmdigital]

B+W ND110 - 10 stop (in simple terms 1/30 becomes 30" exposure). Shot near enough to midday in full sun.


Like looking through welding glass. You also soon learn why screw on filters can be a pain as it takes a lot longer to setup a shot. If I put the ND106 (6 stop) on as well...

[C0L0N3L]

You can position the cokins anyway you want (hold it in position, rotate it on an angle etc).. its just annoying, I have the same problem with a CPL.

You'd only have to buy a different size ring for cokin and they cost about $5