Get a worn drive flange, machine to fit outer flange to make spacer
you will need longer bolts, a bit hard to come by.......
and use a pair of series 2 axles. and job done...........

From Scallops dramas with the series rear axle,most will know of the fully
floating conversion. Fitting a 2a axle is not ideal as the track will be a little wider. So, get a spindle from a fully floating rear. They bolt straight on
fit backing plate and brake set up.......

Get a worn drive flange, machine to fit outer flange to make spacer
you will need longer bolts, a bit hard to come by.......
and use a pair of series 2 axles. and job done...........

If you are really keen, Barry Ward from Hi-Tough Engineering (former Maxi-Drive Axles) will make you a pair of Hi-Tough series 1 track width halfshafts. The only change is that the outer end will be manufactured with 24 splines, which only means that you need to use Salisbury diff/109 drive flanges or Hi-Tough 24 spline flanges.
Diana
You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.
I seem to remember that Mal Story used to keep a small supply of the S1s in stock. Barry may do the same.
Yes the axles are an expensive addition, but still a more reliable option than using 40 + year old series 2 halfshafts.
Diana
You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.
Why not just get a fully floating series 1 axle?
Both my LWB's have them, and I know where heaps more are. I am only leaving the semi on my '86 as it is a vehicle with providence.
CC
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						Because if you break a Series 1 fully floating axle you will have the same problem. They are shorter (and rarer), hence Diana's post and as groucho has said you can use a 2A/3 axle that is about 5/8" longer (because of the wider track housing) and a spacer and longer bolts. Socket head unbrako types were used regularly. There are plenty of 2A/3 axles available.
Alternatively, if there is enough length on the inner spline it can be shortened the required amount so as not to touch the cross-pin in the hemishere. This will not work for all axles available over the years.
Bob
The problem is if you have a 80" with narrow rear springs
What are you going to do ? replace the spring hangers or
re model the wider saddles on the later diffs.
That conversion gives the same track as the original series 1's
with only a bolt up application..... You can use later hubs with the bigger studs too.......
I thought the point of the thread was to convert to fully floating after seeing the trouble scallops has had with removing the backing plate and collars from his semi floating ones, not about breaking axles.
For the trouble you are going to, it would be just as easy to source a genuine series 1 one. Rear axle assemblies don't tend to rust away that often, and if you know where to look, there are plenty about. I don't invision doing anything in my series one's where I would break an axle.
I think what groucho has posted is a great idea, if you need to go that way. But in reality, how often do you do this?(Change semi floating rear bearings)+ My axles have lasted over 50 years so far doing far more work than I am ever going to put them through.
CC
PS. I am also talking from the point of view that I have several spare sets of both types
PPS. I'm to big to fit in an '80 so I don't care
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