Potential Oil Problem in my 80 inch

[Walster]

Hi to the 80 inch Brains Trust,

Thinking hats on please, I think I need Help!

I have a 1951 80 inch fitted with a 1950 1600cc (non-modified motor) however in the last two weekends when I have gone to start her up and take her for a drive I am having a low oil pressure light slightly come on and the sound of bearings not getting the required lubrication. After the oil warms up she runs and drives fine.

The Oil that I am using is Penrite Classic Engine Oil - LIGHT

There speil is as follows:

If 1950-1970s era petrol and diesel engines are your passion, this is the range for you. Use CLASSIC LIGHT where SAE 30 or old style SAE 20W-50 or 20W oils were originally recommended. For warmer climates or for engines that originally used SAE 40 oils, try CLASSIC MEDIUM. CLASSIC HEAVY is your best bet for high ambient temperatures or where old style SAE 50 oils were originally used.

Up until this problem presented itself, I had not starte the old girl for about 5 weeks and then the ambient temperature was a bit warmer. The last few weeks the ambient air temperature has been chilly.

I did notice before I started her today (when i checked the oil level) that the oil was very thick on the dip stick.

Am I right in thinking that the oil is probably too thick when it its cold, which is not a good thing.

What engine oil is every one else using in there 80 inches?

Regards

Wal

[mildred]

Hi to the 80 inch Brains Trust,

Thinking hats on please, I think I need Help!

I have a 1951 80 inch fitted with a 1950 1600cc (non-modified motor) however in the last two weekends when I have gone to start her up and take her for a drive I am having a low oil pressure light slightly come on and the sound of bearings not getting the required lubrication. After the oil warms up she runs and drives fine.

The Oil that I am using is Penrite Classic Engine Oil - LIGHT

There speil is as follows:

If 1950-1970s era petrol and diesel engines are your passion, this is the range for you. Use CLASSIC LIGHT where SAE 30 or old style SAE 20W-50 or 20W oils were originally recommended. For warmer climates or for engines that originally used SAE 40 oils, try CLASSIC MEDIUM. CLASSIC HEAVY is your best bet for high ambient temperatures or where old style SAE 50 oils were originally used.

Up until this problem presented itself, I had not starte the old girl for about 5 weeks and then the ambient temperature was a bit warmer. The last few weeks the ambient air temperature has been chilly.

I did notice before I started her today (when i checked the oil level) that the oil was very thick on the dip stick.

Am I right in thinking that the oil is probably too thick when it its cold, which is not a good thing.

What engine oil is every one else using in there 80 inches?

Regards

Wal

G'day Wal,
I to have a 1952 , 80 inch series one with the 2000cc engine.
I just use castrol GTX multi-grade and have not had any oil type problems like yours!
I think that having oil that is too thick in an old engine is asking for trouble. The oil has to get to its required place as quickly as possible and start lubricating SAP.
I use very thick oil in the gearbox and transfer and have had no trouble in that area.
With regard to the engine, have you ever removed the sump and cleaned the mesh oil strainer? I did that when rebuilding the engine and believe me it definitely need a clean. If its all gunked up, that may contribute to low oil pressure for the obvious reason? and if the oil is thick and also cold , that would not help the situation.
Regards
Peter

[JDNSW]

I think you have a problem apart from the type of oil, and it is most likely either a partly blocked screen (as suggested) on the oil pickup or an air leak on the suction of the oil pump (or both), both exacerbated by the relatively heavy oil. But there are other possibilities, including a sticking oil relief valve that is freed by increasing temperature.

If it was only a problem with high viscosity oil, I would not expect low oil pressure to be a symptom, and particularly not when cold.

John

[digger]

when starting is it originally very slow to turn over?

eg slow starter turnover then gets faster and starts?

I had this problem on a Rollux years ago.

sat most of time but got serviced on dates not kms. as stated slow turn over etc then runs fast & fine (starter) and starts.. coudnt work it out, when finally running OK, you check oil and its sweet, clean and nice.

After lots of searching, off came the oil filter when car was COLD, and the oil was fair dinkum treakle!! the crank was pushing through this 'sludge' of jelly like stuff, after pushing it aside it stayed clear until car started, then the heat melted it to appear perfectly fine. Turns out the bloke that was servicing it wasnt changing the oil!!! he'd change the filter and top it up (god knows how he did that without loosing everything!) he did this because he was watching the kms and didnt think he needed to replace the oil (even though he charged for it.)

cost him a total engine rebuild because I refused to settle for anything less

[series1buff]

is it a NEW REBUILT ENGINE ? If so, It might still be tight .... worn motors are usually loose and rebuilt motors take a while to loosen up and turn over easily. That said , the oil pressure switch may need testing ,. it mounts on the output to the rocker shafts from memory , it might be telling you lies. If you can connect a oil pressure guage to the line and see what it says .... thats what I did. I made up a connector as its a weird thread the pressure sensor has

MIKE

[JDNSW]

....... a weird thread the pressure sensor has

MIKE

Probably BSF - the Series 2/2a/3 is.

[mildred]

Hi there all,
Just sharing with you a different type of oil problem that I had to deal with over the weekend.

Sunday midday
Nothing related to the oil light on landie of the topic.
Friend and neighbour, experienced oil pouring out of the lower engine on her ford falcon.
It was so bad that I advised her not to drive it any more.
Put it on ramps, had a look, oil pouring down induction side of engine (passenger side).
Tightened oil filter first option. Still a steady stream of oil.
Now I am covered in the oil and not very happy.
Discovered that in the most inaccessible part of the engine, that the oil pressure light switch was leaking from the spade terminal.
All the sockets I had were to short, needed a long reach socket. On Sunday PM everything closed.
Monday

bought new sender switch from Fords.
Mechanic said use long-reach socket.
Had to buy 2 long-reach sockets,1@15/16 af, 1@1inch af.
Old switch in block was 1 inch af, new switch plug was 15/16 size.
both $20 each.
Removed the oil filter and it took only 5 mins to effect he repair.
Tested car and all was well.
Moral of storey: some oil leak or other problems turn out to be a nightmare on cold Sunday afternoons with a light drizzle.
Recommend wait for good weather to help ones neighbours, if possible, or go back to sleep in front of the roaring fire.....

[Landy Smurf]

or go back to sleep in front of the roaring fire.....

i think thats your best option

[mildred]

I think that's your best option

still once in a while to help your neighbours is OK to
BTW what are you doing in here Tony? and not in the shed doing your landie....tut tut

[JDNSW]

Hi there all,
Just sharing with you a different type of oil problem that I had to deal with over the weekend.
..........
Discovered that in the most inaccessible part of the engine, that the oil pressure light switch was leaking from the spade terminal.
............

Reminds me of my first car, a 1955 VW pickup. One morning, starting up in very cold weather after camping for the night, I was fortunately backing out of a tight spot, and had my brother looking out. He noticed oil "everywhere".

Much more accessible in the case of the VW engine - the oil pressure switch faced backwards, and the guts of it were hanging on the end of the wire, with the base directing a jet of oil back against the engine compartment lid. Put a self tapper in to block the leak and got a new sender at the next town.

John