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Thread: selector lever hot and sparks

  1. #1
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    selector lever hot and sparks

    The yellow knob selector lever was very hot and sparking could be noticed below the base. I noticed the spring was not fully decompressed, also washer was missing. Placed new washer and lever sprang back to 2wd position. Any major problems to expect?

  2. #2
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    Hot is not unusual - although hardly normal this time of year - as hot air off the engine comes back between the gearbox and transmission tunnel.

    However, sparking is definitely not normal. I can see two possibilities. The most likely is that the yellow knob is acting as the body/engine earth connection. This is not a good idea, and is likely to lead to all sorts of electrical mysteries. Should be a good earth strap between the engine/gearbox and the chassis - not sure where this is on Series 3, but the location is not critical. While the body is not insulated from the chassis by intention, rusty and corroded bolted joins may mean that it effectively is insulated, and a separate earth to the chassis from various body sections may be needed.

    If this is not the case, it almost has to be that something is rubbing against the output yoke on the front of the transfer case and is sparking.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  3. #3
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    Your engine earth strap is broken or missing.

    I had this problem where the spring around the selector was the only engine earth at start-up.

    Hope this helps.

    Cheers,
    Daryl.

  4. #4
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    Thumbs up

    Thanks for info. I will investigate further. I was thinking it may have something to do with the lever not fully releasing. The missing washer is also a mystery. I was wondering if it has fallen under the cover plate and causing friction. Your electrical point is ominous so I will check that out, but sparking seemed more like an angle grinder spark and irregular ie not consistent yet still may be electrical. This may not explain the heat in the shifter...really hot (with F as an adjective).

    cheers

  5. #5
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    looking more like and earth problem by what you guys are saying. I just got a reco donk dropped in and this was the first drive so maybe earth strap forgotten. Where do I look, am I looking for a cable connected to the chasis from the engine block? I hate electrical problems they are all as slippery as a bucket of snot filled with eels.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nelsonian View Post
    looking more like and earth problem by what you guys are saying. I just got a reco donk dropped in and this was the first drive so maybe earth strap forgotten. Where do I look, am I looking for a cable connected to the chasis from the engine block? I hate electrical problems they are all as slippery as a bucket of snot filled with eels.
    Yep, although, I can't remember exactly where it is supposed to be (it was in 1976), but if you can't find it, I'd add it near the starter on say a bellhousing bolt. Before you go adding it, just try sticking a jumper lead between the chassis and engine to check that this solves the problem.


    Cheers,
    Daryl.

  7. #7
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    The earth strap was originally from one of the starter mounting bolts, but it could be anywhere between engine/gearbox and chassis - it is not critical. Many installations I have seen have changed the negative from the battery to go to the engine, as this means the starter current does not go through the engine/chassis earth strap.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  8. #8
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    The temp of the yellow button and probab the red one as well, may have also been caused by the ground side of the alternator charge.

    The earth/ground lead going to a bolt as close to the starter motor is a good idea.

    As John has mentioned corrosion is a big problem with getting a good ground.

    I have also seen installations where a new long ground lead has been made up where a longer than usual lead has the battery and starter terminals but also a third terminal (like a "P" clip) soldered into mid length and this one was grounded to the chassis. Best of both worlds - apart from the long length.

    You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.

  9. #9
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    I had the same problem, but mine set fire to the tunnel cover at the same time the engine died. I now have a fire extinguisher in the cab. Sure made diagnosing the problem difficult. I only ended up having the alternator reconditioned.

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