One versus Twins versus Remote Canister Shocks

[pando]

Hi Guys,

D1 getting a suspension upgrade shortly, was going to replace with used +2" OME springs and shocks out of my dead disco but I've decided to spend the dosh on a new kit.

Research both here and the internet has brought up a varied range of different setups, just want to query as to the differences between a normal singular shockie install, going for twin shocks or the remote canister style?

I guess why would you need to go beyond a single? Whats the pros and cons surrounding each of the different setups?

[djam1]

I would be inclined to use Bilstein or Koni Shocks
There is a lot of rubbish on the Australian Market pretty paint and making promises that may not cut it.
Unless you are doing the Paris Dakar either of the above will serve you well.
Even if you were doing the Paris Dakar I am sure there is a combination of Bilstein shocks that have already done it.

[rick130]

Without going into technicalities, dual shocks and remote reservoir shocks are for racing or heavily overloaded and driven vehicles pounding along heavily corrugated roads for hours on end.

All they do is increase oil volume and hence heat dissipation, (reduces/eliminates shock fade)
For the average punter it isn't needed or is necessary, and agree with djam, Koni, Billie's, Delphi/de Carbon, OME (particularly their LTR) are probably the pick of the off the shelf/bolt in to stock mount dampers.

[slug_burner]

Hi Guys,

D1 getting a suspension upgrade shortly, was going to replace with used +2" OME springs and shocks out of my dead disco but I've decided to spend the dosh on a new kit.

Research both here and the internet has brought up a varied range of different setups, just want to query as to the differences between a normal singular shockie install, going for twin shocks or the remote canister style?

I guess why would you need to go beyond a single? Whats the pros and cons surrounding each of the different setups?

When your shocks are working they heat the fluid, the more fluid in the shock the longer they will work properly as it will take longer to heat a greater volume of fluid. Dual shocks provide twice as much fluid, remote canisters also provide additional fuild, big mother shocks also provide more fluid check out the Koni Raids for big mothers. The ability to cool the fluid is also improved with increased surface area.

Someone that really knows what they are talking about will come along soon Like rick 130 who beat me to it anyway

[rick130]

When your shocks are working they heat the fluid, the more fluid in the shock the longer they will work properly as it will take longer to heat a greater volume of fluid. Dual shocks provide twice as much fluid, remote canisters also provide additional fuild, big mother shocks also provide more fluid check out the Koni Raids for big mothers. The ability to cool the fluid is also improved with increased surface area.

Someone that really knows what they are talking about will come along soon Like rick 130 who beat me to it anyway

Forgot to mention that larger piston diameters (and by default dual shockies) also reduce the internal pressures required to damp any particular force and hence reduce heat build up, cavitation, fade etc.

Nitrogen pressure ('gas' shocks) also reduce cavitation substantially, reducing the the onset of fade.

Please note, 'gas' shocks still use oil as the damping medium, they just use nitrogen pressure to reduce cavitation/fade.

Two gas systems are employed, emulsion style gas pressure where the nitrogen is charged directly into the fluid space (Koni low pressure twin tubes, OME, etc) and mono-tube high pressure types, where the nitrogen is separated from the oil by a floating divider piston, either in the base of the damper a la 6100 series Bilstein, mono-tube Koni (30 Series) or de-Carbon, or in the remote can as in some Bilstein 7100 Series, OME LTR's etc.
The floating piston style is more effective at reducing the onset of cavitation and fade as the gas and oil is separated but the emulsion style has some advantages in bump valving and compliance which is nice in road going vehicles.

[Slunnie]

You pretty much wont get fade with shocks that have the oil and gas seperated. The oil cant airate if the gas is physically seperated like in shocks such as the Bilstein and remote canister shocks made by a range of manufacturers. Every other design will fade.

With dual shocks you are adding shocks to increase the damping and/or to reduce the heat buildup in the shocks which may induce fade where the shocks lose their effectiveness. You might need this for a range of reasons, such as listed above by Rick. If you use or spec up a shock that is stiff or is going to work hard, then it will generate heat - if you share the load through 2 shocks then you reduce the heat level in both. Thats the advantage. Less heat and so fade, or more damping force.

You can spec a shock up to work the same as dual shocks, but there are 2 limiting factors heat and so fade and the ability for the bushes and shock body to physically withstand the forces. I have spec'd up my rear shocks to work with a similar force to dual shocks, and I need to run poly bushes for them to stay together. I also run Bilsteins which don't seem to fade even with the most horrific pounding. In comparison, triple shell foam cell shocks like Rancho I can fade in 15-20mins on a fast dirt road and they will never recover.

[frantic]

If your going billies have a look at the U.S sites (Lucky8 etc) as with the exchange rate you will save large $$. Also you may need to change the mounting points for them. The 7100 looks like an excellent shock and if I was doing/planning a large amount of outback touring they would be the ones instead of my OME's but they are also about $100+ per shock more from the U.S.
Bilstein
Lucky8 Llc. - Take the road less traveled...

[Psimpson7]

I run LTR Remote cannisters on mine and have done for a few years and they have been pretty good, although I did break one, which ARB replaced under warranty.

I will be going to 7100's next I think

[Tusker]

I run dual fronts. Shocks can be used to control body roll to a degree.

If you run holey bushes or similar to improve off-road flex, on-road control suffers. You lose the anti-roll bar effect the radius arms have on the front axle housing.

So on-road, the front end just kneels & turn-in is horrible. You can fix this with beefing up shocks.

Downside is there's a mismatch between optimal spring rates & shock rates, so the front can feel too stiff sometimes. It can pitch more than normal. Highway speeds are fine though.

I prefer the stiff front end offroad actually. Uphill the front doesn't contribute much, so lifting a wheel isn't a big deal. Downhill you have more control, the wallowing as you slip off rocks is gone.

Overall I think dual front shocks & soft radius arms bushes are a good on-road off-road compromise. At the expense of replacing said bushes every year.

Regards
Max P

[pando]

Thanks Guys,

If your running say twin rears, are these valved differently to say a single installation for it to work correctly?

I'm guessing that twice the shockie equals twice the opposition to movement, hence would need to be setup differently?