There's always something, eh?
Today I started servicing the 2a in preparation for driving to Sydney next weekend.
I observed when I jacked it up that the swivel seal on the RH wheel started to leak. Now, in Series Landrovers, this symptom is a sure sign that the swivel is loose, as when jacked up, the swivel housing drops slightly, and since the bearing at the bottom is tapered, the seal moves away from the ball under the weight of the wheel and hub.
So I removed the wheel, then detached the tie rod from the steering arm, and sure enough, the swivel housing flopped to the back. So I removed the top swivel pin (putting a jack under the bottom to avoid losing all the oil!) and removed a total of about 0.020" of shims before the preload was 14 pounds (which I have found is a reasonable figure to use with the seals in place). Although the left hand was not leaking, I repeated this procedure on the left, removing about 0.010 shims on this side. While removing the drag link from the arm, I found that tie rod end was done.
So I spent most of the rest of the afternoon getting it off the drag link. Had to remove it, and put it in a pipe vice and use 36" pipe wrench plus WD40 and gentle heat. I am pretty certain this is one that was on it when I bought the car in 1992. Then had to rat round and find a replacement. Got one that had been removed some time ago because of a damaged seal, but had no rust or damage to the joint itself. Cleaned it out, repacked it and fitted a new seal, then installed it on the drag link and stopped then to allow the paint to dry, and anyway it was getting dark.
John
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
There's always something, eh?
looking forward to seeing it there
All done, but probably won't be a pretty as it would have if I had not had to spend that amount of time on it!
John
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
Today I went into town, and seeing that when I checked the headlight aim, I found the beam on the LH light was very distorted , due to the filament having sagged, I planned on getting a new headlight bulb. (BPF, also known as Lucas)
Easier said than done. Tried a couple of the regular auto supply places - they did not know what I was talking about, nor could find they them in their catalogues. So I tried an auto electrician. No luck, at the first one, but the second one, when I described it, said "follow me", and led me into a back room and pointed to a dusty bulb display board - with two BPF bulbs in it (among others). I bought both for $10. And as I left, he was on the phone ordering two for stock!
John
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
John
Contact Anthony Pearson at Classic and Vintage Bulbs Headlight Bulbs in Adelaide, he manufactures 65/55W BPF halogen bulbs to retrofit the Lucas700 lamp units.
That way when you're scooting along those mountain roads on the way home you'll be able to see the road in front of you.
Diana
You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.
 Swaggie
					
					
						Swaggie
					
					
						Problem with that, Diana, is that Lucas semi-sealed light units were never manufactured to a standard that would survive the use of Quartz-halogen bulbs. What happens is that the aluminium reflective coating on the reflectors bubbles and lifts. If you took one back to Lucas and complained, you were told that QH bulbs were not approved. Yes, I know that Lucas sold these bulbs under their own brand name.
Another thing that happened with QH bulbs was when used in Lucas SFT576 fog lights, the relatively thick lens would heat unevenly and crack. This did not happen with the SLR576 long range driving lights which had much thinner glass.
URSUSMAJOR
Brian
Interesting theory, however AFAIK a 65W element in an incandescent bulb will give off the same heat as a 65W element in a halogen bulb, the heat differential being in the physical size of the glass bulb and an amount of infra red heat energy reflected back to increase the light output (the metal cap on halogen bulbs).
Personally, irrespective of any theoretical shortened life of a long past warranty headlamp unit and at night, I would rather have headlamps that produce illumination of the hazards on the road ahead instead of lamps where the light dribbles out the front of the headlamps and illuminates a puddle directly below the front bumper.
Diana
You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.
 Swaggie
					
					
						Swaggie
					
					
						Well, if you have a restored classic with the correct and no longer available light units such as Le Mans 24, PL, P700, etc. you may not want to risk them. I went through this with Lucas around 1970 with the first QH bulbs. Kev. Baker, the Lucas man, will confirm this. The later designs are made to cope.
URSUSMAJOR
Brian
I had a quote from Anthony today about re-silvering some FV headlamp units and he informs me he can fit new BPF reflectors to any original 7" glass lenses. I would be sure that the new reflectors will be to standard for the halogen bulbs.
Diana
You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.
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