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Thread: Freelander 1, what's right, whats wrong?

  1. #1
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    Freelander 1, what's right, whats wrong?

    I am considering buying an early model Freelander (V6 auto) so I would like to know what owners think of them. What is good, what can go wrong, what to look out for? Are they really capable of towing the 2000kg for which they are rated?

    Your comments please.

  2. #2
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    Go through the threads in the Freelander section and you will find most of your answers.

    As far as towing goes - it will tow 2000kg - I have towed series 1 landies behind my early diesel Freelander a few times without issue - however remember that 2000kg is the max it will tow and is like a normal landie towing 3500kg - yes it will do it but it is at its limits.

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  3. #3
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    I own a Freelander 1, KV6 auto, and after some initial problems with it, I must say I am now very happy with it. The bad thing about the motor is it is a petrol guzzler (13/14 litres per 100k's) and it likes premium (as do all European cars) so keep that in mind. You should have no problem towing with it, within its capabilities. When you look at it, make sure it is a late 2001 model (ie from June onwards, build date) as by then they seem to have to overcome most of the problems that plagued earlier FL1's, which mainly were chewing out IRD's and VCU's. Do a search here in the Freelander section to help answer your questions and good luck with your purchase if you decide to go ahead with it.

  4. #4
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    Have not towed anything substantial with wifey's 2001 TD4, but gee that thing has got some pull going up hills. Gives my V8 Rangie a good run for the money in the usable torque stakes.
    Would strongly consider a TD4 over a V6 Freebie in terms of economy and towing capacity.
    Oh, and if you ever decide to use it offroad... the auto TD4 has a first gear ratio that almost makes up for the absence of a low range transfer case. Also very useful for towing.

    Cheers, Paul.
    My toys, projects and write-ups at PaulP38a.com

  5. #5
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    While I have the earlier L series diesel I fully agree with Paul - go the TD4 (newer vehicle, not necessarily a better diesel) and definitely go the auto. In everyday driving the usable torque of the diesel is better than any of the petrols and Paul indicated the auto is great for overcoming the lack of low range.

    The clutch in the manual freelander is not the strongest around and slow manoeuvring on slopes can be problematic - but does tow great on the road.

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  6. #6
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    Another vote for a TD4

    We have a 2001 TD4 manual that I picked up off Ebay of all things for $8k loaded with leather and a few other options. The insurance company insured it for $12k without blinking. It's a companion to our 2006 diesel Pajero. After reading these forums I decided I would not risk buying into one of the petrol engines - particularly with their head gasket problems. After tidying up a few of the common faults (all info found on these pages thanks very much) I have to say that I am astounded by a) how well it goes, b) how quiet and civilised it is for a diesel, and c) how little fuel it uses. The wife regularly gets 750 to 800km from a tank! Her previous V6 Camry was less than half that.

    Just for laughs I hooked up our 1600kg ski boat and was surprised how well it towed it. Almost as good as the Pajero in terms of power, just a little less sure footed. We have had it in a few light off-road situations following the Pajero around and it coped quite well. I'm now considering keeping my eye out for another bargain one for my daughter. Only regret I have is not finding an auto, although this one had it's clutch changed about 5,000km before we picked it up.

    They are regularly listed through carpoint and ebay by dealers, often for a fair bit less than redbook values. I have found Land Rover to be best avoided for parts based on cost and availability, with LR Automotive and Rovacraft providing a great service on reasonably priced spares - usually delivered within 24 hours. I have also picked up the odd bit from the local BMW dealer for the M47 motor (eg - the revised breather).

    Do your homework re the common faults and be sure you know what to look out for - eg a missing rear driveshaft.

    Pat

  7. #7
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    TD4 Auto...

    M

  8. #8
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    Recently sold my V6 auto and it towed many things many places.
    You need to override the auto to get the best out of the V6 as in my opinion the calibration is sub-standard. The Auto hangs onto gears below the point where you should be changing down, leaving you right in the 2500rpm torque hole and rapidly going nowhere.
    Fuel consumption is an issue, less so if you adopt a more leisurly approach and let highway speed drop back a bit.

    I sold the V6 to get something bigger for a specific purpose, however I would consider another FL1 in a late TD4 as daily transport. Bargains can be had.

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