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Thread: Raising and securing a metal lathe to slab

  1. #1
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    Raising and securing a metal lathe to slab

    So a shiny new 650kg paperweight has found its way into the corner of my shed (AL-336 metal lathe)

    Im chasing any info from someone who may have experience in placing heavy machinery.

    The concrete slab is level but in my opinion the lathe is ~50mm short of a good working height.

    The lathe comes with stand/foot brake assembly. Each 'leg' of the stand has 4 x 17mm holes punched through 6mm plate. Obviously just asking for M16anchors.

    A wise old machinist as well as H&F mentioned that best practise would be to mechanical anchor the stand using jacking bolts then pour an epoxy grout into the void about the jacking bolts and stand for a solid, vibration free attachment to slab.

    So if I wanted to raise the base by the above about 50mm do any learned AULROians see an issue with the following:

    -Chem in the 16mm anchors with say 75mm protruding above conc.
    -Making up some say 10mm thick base plates for each anchor.
    -place these over jacking nuts on the M16 studs.
    -place the lathe on 10mm base plates ~50mm raised above slab
    -level off the ways using jacking nuts.
    -remove lathe
    -form up about the base plates then pour 'Sikadur-42' High strength pourable epoxy resin grout.
    -let it cure and then bolt the lathe down.

    From my reckoning this all fits within the product description for the Sika product (max fill of 6o mm) will give a solid connection to the slab and raise the lathe.

    See attached word diagram if my explanation makes no sense. I only included one stud/base plate for clarity (there will be eight studs securing the lathe)

    Any takers?

    Steve
    Attached Files Attached Files

  2. #2
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    That is pretty much how a structural steel portal frame would be erected.

    Using a non shrinking grout is important...and the epoxy will probably fit the bill.

    I assume that the 10mm plate for each "leg" would have 2 holes and you would use that as the template for drilling the holes in the slab for the chem-anchors.

    So it seems sound to me.

    Don't forget the photos.
    Mahn England

    DEFENDER 110 D300 SE '23 (the S M E G)

    Ex DEFENDER 110 wagon '08 (the Kelvinator)
    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members-rides/105691-one_iotas-110-inch-kelvinator.html

    Ex 300Tdi Disco:



  3. #3
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    Yeah I was thinking of putting two holes in each 10mm plate, then there would essentilly be two plates per leg, two legs for the lathe.

    I guess my only real concern was the 2" lift, you know castor angles and all that

    In the end it will be a pretty permanent fixture - I hope I have it in the right place.

    Steve

  4. #4
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    Are you expecting a 650kg lathe to walk around your shed? How out-of balance are your work pieces going to be? I would suggest get some adjustable rubber feet from a machinery place, like these:


    Then you can shift the lathe if needed, just needs a LR nearby. Also transmits less earth vibrations to your neighbours.

  5. #5
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    Have you got or have access to an engineer's precision level to level the lathe bed both directions? This is essential. you dont want twist in the bed.

    Any reasonable modern method for securing to concrete will do. It is only a small light lathe and won't need much securing. Bolt it to the floor through 75mm heavy wall square steel tube and use c-washers or shim of varying thicknesses to level the machine before tightening down and checking level again. Repeat if necessary.
    URSUSMAJOR

  6. #6
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    Sounds good. Heavier more industrial style lathes have a large hollow jack screw. Through this jack screw is the anchor bolt. Typical of any Chinese machinery that will have some one standing to operate it. Always too low even for me and I am at the bottom end of average height. All built for a short race.
    Cheers Hall

  7. #7
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    Thanks for all the input:
    -yes on the access to engineers level-
    -Beeutey, I also thought that gravity would be friendly enough not to need fixation but from what I have been told by those that know it is safer to have positive fixation. I think the neighbors are more likely to feel vibrations from an UnZed earthquake than anything going round and round in the shed
    -Brian I will ponder on the bolted through SHS option...

    Thanks again.
    S

  8. #8
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    Almost correct.

    chem set into the floor 3"-4" then 50mm of air and then a good 1/2 plate. Mount it all get it in the ball park with the level. Then box and back fill under the plate

    Then you have a metal plate to shim against when you do your cutting sequence/level etc

    The chem sets in the tube are much better than the syringe types. Make sure you have a good 1/2 drill to mix it all up and make sure you blow out the hole of all cement dust. And grind a chisel end to your rod.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by roverrescue View Post
    Thanks for all the input:
    -yes on the access to engineers level-
    -Beeutey, I also thought that gravity would be friendly enough not to need fixation but from what I have been told by those that know it is safer to have positive fixation. I think the neighbors are more likely to feel vibrations from an UnZed earthquake than anything going round and round in the shed
    -Brian I will ponder on the bolted through SHS option...

    Thanks again.
    S
    You could, if you wish, weld crush tubes into the square tube.
    URSUSMAJOR

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Hjelm View Post
    You could, if you wish, weld crush tubes into the square tube.
    even better top and bottom plate and tubes

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