Help - removing 3.9 crank adaptor plate

[paulcnb]

Hi, I am refurbishing a 3.9 disco (9.35:1) engine and having trouble removing a small round plate at the rear of the crankshaft.
The workshop manual refers to plate in two ways - ie adaptor plate and hub aligner. It is attached to the end of the crank and centres the ringear/flexplate to the crank. It has six 8mm countersunk hex drive (allen key type) studs.
I bought an 8mm Kinchrome 1/2 inch drive hex socket - but the studs just don't want to move. They are so tight that I am beginning to wonder if they are a reverse thread.
Has anyone got any tips on how I should go about getting them out?
Regards
Paul

[Bradtot]

Paul good quality 8mm allen key and an impact driver is how I did mine.
I also did a little bit of warming up with a small gas blow torch to break the locktight seal.
they screw in and out the normal way
Brad

[paulcnb]

Thanks for your advice Brad. Now I know it is not a reverse thread - I will get some heat on to the studs and give it a serious go.
Regards,
Paul

[mandala1111]

I just had to change over the hub aligner from my old engine to the new one due to different flex plate spacers.I had to get a 4 foot pole on the end of the ratchet on the allen hub bolts while I had a long breaker bar fitted to the front crank pulley which was wedged into the pallet the engine was on.They were really tight and thought something was going to break.Good luck.
Cheers
Shane

[Blknight.aus]

you dont need any kind of flame heating, you can use one of the 2400W air paint strippers to good effect.

an impact driver (as in the kind you hit with the FBH not a rattle gun) is the way to go.

[Tank]

I just had to change over the hub aligner from my old engine to the new one due to different flex plate spacers.I had to get a 4 foot pole on the end of the ratchet on the allen hub bolts while I had a long breaker bar fitted to the front crank pulley which was wedged into the pallet the engine was on.They were really tight and thought something was going to break.Good luck.
Cheers
Shane

Not a good Idea to use a ratchet in a situation that calls for a breaker bar, Regards Frank.

[Tank]

Sorry double post, Regards frank.

[paulcnb]

Thanks Guys - I got the studs out to-day. They were super-tight. I thought I'd break the hex drive socket for a minute - they each let go with a distinct "snap".

Now to put it on my engine stand for a clean down and bearing check.

Regards,
Paul