Defender 130 Rear cross member towing question

[juddy]

I have been looking at a replacement fuel tank, to increase range, but it seems i cant use the OME land rover tow bar, my question is can i utilise the rear cross member for mounting a tow bar mount, and also can the rear cross member be used to mount a NATO hitch directly, allowing for clearence...

[rainman]

Hi juddy. I have a Long Ranger 135 (or 140?) litre tank on my 130 with your run-of-the-mill Hayman Reece tow bar. I don't have any pics from the back but:

[86mud]

I believe my tow bar is genuine Landrover and I had to shave off a bit so I could fit the long range tank. I had to cut a small section out of the steel reinforcing bars that goes back to the chassis rail.

I'll try and get a picture tonight.

As for mounting the Nato Hitch direct to the rear crossmember, firstly, do the mounting holes line up with the 4 on the cross member and secondly, do you still have the HCPU tub? Would it interfere with hitching/unhitching with the Nato Hitch tucked up under the tray?

Cheers
Andrew

[juddy]

I believe my tow bar is genuine Landrover and I had to shave off a bit so I could fit the long range tank. I had to cut a small section out of the steel reinforcing bars that goes back to the chassis rail.

I'll try and get a picture tonight.

As for mounting the Nato Hitch direct to the rear crossmember, firstly, do the mounting holes line up with the 4 on the cross member and secondly, do you still have the HCPU tub? Would it interfere with hitching/unhitching with the Nato Hitch tucked up under the tray?

Cheers
Andrew

Good point, it is for a HCPU, i am unsure if it would interfere with hitching etc... I know the British Army now use the 130 HCPU, so i take it they use a NATO hook...

[juddy]

heres one with a nato

Project HEBE

[86mud]

From those pictures, it looks as though the hitch is sitting away from the crossmember on a fabricated mount.

[VladTepes]

You'd want it sitting further put that the cross member otherwise when you wnet uphill the a-frame may foul on the rear of the tub or tray.

I jut got an adaptor plate from a trailer place which slotted into the haymn reece receiver and to which the nato hitch bolted straight up.

[PAT303]

I know for sure that 110's need the bar and tank to match. Pat

[rick130]

IIRC you need the rear crossmember reinforced if using an OE type (English) tow bar. (it's a kit from Land Rover)

I don't think this isn't necessary if using a Hayman Reece type as it ties into the longitudinal chassis rails, not just off the rear crossmember as the OE one does.

FWIW somewhere around 1990 and prior you didn't need to 'fix' anything, it was all heavy duty enough already........

[rick130]

I stand corrected, looks like things have changed a little.

From a post on LR4x4.

The proper LR towing drop plate kit bolts straight to the crossmember with just the angle underneath, see here:

http://www.a2stainle...-Kit_AKKN7.aspx

http://www.duckworth...__Carrying.html

There is no reinforcing kit to go behind the crossmember on newer chassis as the plastic fuel tank sits right close to the chassis so you can't get at it without taking the crossmember out and the holes are not tubed to the inside either so you would have to do a proper job on it and make up a proper backing plate for the front side of the crossmember to spread the load, and tube the holes through the chassis, even then it will still be tinfoil.

The plate just between the chassis and hitch won't add a huge amount but would not be a bad idea - but use bolts in all six holes not just the bottom two.

By trial and error over several years I find that a relatively gentle snatch is OK on the new style tow points (say 3000rpm 1st low on a 10 metre nylon rope) but would not use any more or you will rearrange the crossmember quite quickly. On the old style chassis with a proper towing point you could take off flat out in 3rd low so there is a big difference in strength.