Series 2 Advice !!

[QWOPPER]

Hi all

Im thinking of purchasing a series 2 or 2a (without the head lights on the from wings). I am thinking about the SWB Truck body (ute) in partiuar because i like the way it looks. Here are my few questions:

1: I was just wondering if anyone had some tips for me or could give me some adive on problems they have had and approximate expenses of refurbishing one

2: can the different bodys (ute, wagon, soft top all in SW be converted between themselves?

3: How good are they off road (Im talking all types of off roading), and what are some good modifications to make them better off road. (I am mainly worried about the ground clearance. Apparentally only 248mm)

4: How good are they on road?

5: if i roll it, is there a roll cage to stop me dieing or do i need to get an aftermarket one

6: Is it worth it, because i would like to use it off road for touring as well as a classic car and as well as a fun project.

Thanks heaps for reading this and helping me decide what to do

[isuzutoo-eh]

Hi Qwopper,
I am afraid to tally the dollars gone into my 2a, but a friend spent something like 7 grand on his not yet finished project. Lets just say it needed a lot of effort and bits to get to a high standard. Get one that doesn't need much work, may cost a thousand more now but that might be two thousand less later...
I doubt i've spent more than $1500 on parts that i've actually needed/used, its the extras, two sets of tyres+rims, spare motor, diff lock, pto etc than has taken its financial toll for me!

The different body styles can be swapped easily. It's only bolted together...but finding soft top parts aren't so easy and new canvas and hoops can add to the cost quite rapidly.

They can be very very impressive off road. A member of LROCS runs 34" bogger tyres with chopped guards and reworked springs, different carby, otherwise stock mechanicals and is more capable than my 110. Short wheelbase means the ramp over angle is insanely good, approach and departure angles are also very good on SWBs, but not so good on rock steps, the angles get pretty extreme! The light weight is a major advantage in a lot of places too.

On road...they are not quick, quiet and petrols aren't frugal. Thats all I know of that side of things!

You could get a roll cage of sorts fabbed up, I had one for a while, it was merely bolted to the tub rather than chassis, so not all that sturdy. Better than nothing though. When fitting one up, make sure it'll clear the truck cab rear wall, as that sits proud of the bulkhead a few inches.

SWBs don't have a lot of room for gear, remembering if you go to wider or taller tyres you can't store the spare on the bonnet and see much so that takes up tub space. Of course people have used SWB Landies for touring for years so don't let anyone tell you it can't be done!

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Hi Qwopper

Sometimes you are better spending a little more money and buying a good/excellent one rather than fixing up a "restorers dream".

[series3]

Hi all

Im thinking of purchasing a series 2 or 2a (without the head lights on the from wings). I am thinking about the SWB Truck body (ute) in partiuar because i like the way it looks. Here are my few questions:

1: I was just wondering if anyone had some tips for me or could give me some adive on problems they have had and approximate expenses of refurbishing one

2: can the different bodys (ute, wagon, soft top all in SW be converted between themselves?

3: How good are they off road (Im talking all types of off roading), and what are some good modifications to make them better off road. (I am mainly worried about the ground clearance. Apparentally only 248mm)

4: How good are they on road?

5: if i roll it, is there a roll cage to stop me dieing or do i need to get an aftermarket one

6: Is it worth it, because i would like to use it off road for touring as well as a classic car and as well as a fun project.

Thanks heaps for reading this and helping me decide what to do

Hi quopper.

I think the most important things when looking at a series land rover would be investigating for rust and checking for smooth running order. Check for rust in all of the chassis and firewall, and make sure that the gearbox runs smoothly and doesn't jump out of gear. The gearboxes don't have synchromesh on 1st and 2nd but correct operation should smooth and crunchless. If it isn't regoed, chances are it Will take a few bob to get it on the road. Are you mechanically minded/able/willing? DIY'ing is the best way to save money.

I think mark is on the money about offroad ability. It took me a few trips to find my 2a's limits, and am pretty impressed with what the old girl can do; it can definitely keep up on the typical weekend warrior trip. Beyond there, anything can be modified to any degree to achieve anything. The only limiting factor in that sense is dosh and imagination. Stock, it has low weight, CoG and gearing which is a good start. My 2a has 7.50 16's and i don't really have an issue with clearance. I would love some mor articulation, and have yet to really encounter the carb starvation issue. I personally haven't worried about rollover protection.

Onroad they instill patience, in both accelerating and braking. They are very Spartan, and you can really tell what season it is outside. If you favor creature comforts, fast quiet and non-exhausting trips, it may not be the car for you.I think a well sorted 2.25 will consume as much as most other period carb fed petrol motors.

Is it worth it? There's only one way to find out!

Sam

[QWOPPER]

They can be very very impressive off road. A member of LROCS runs 34" bogger tyres with chopped guards and reworked springs, different carby, otherwise stock mechanicals and is more capable than my 110. Short wheelbase means the ramp over angle is insanely good, approach and departure angles are also very good on SWBs, but not so good on rock steps, the angles get pretty extreme! The light weight is a major advantage in a lot of places too.

do you have any photos of a modded series 2/2a? i am unsure whether if i bought one i would restore it to the original factory product, mod it slighty but still keep it basically original (diffs and new tyres maybe), or fully mod it out. This will be a second 'project car' so i will not be using it a whole lot around the city, but might do a few longer runs with it. LWB's seem to be much rarer than SWB's as well.

As a tourer, would it be a better idea to forget the whole restoring a car idea and just buying an older defender or (God forbid) a toyota LC?

[QWOPPER]

also, do they have any heating? or cooling? or is it just opening up the windows! I have not done mechanics, but i would like to get into it. How does the original car run? How much would a diesel engine cost in total? new gearbox?

Thanks.

[isuzutoo-eh]

My diesel engine cost $400ish by memory, plus two days driving and overnight pub accomodation bought from a forum member who just picked up another 2a. Took me ages to find an affordable one after missing a few on ebay. Then I picked up a diesel specific dash panel and other 2.25D bits and bobs as I could from a local restorer/collector. Now i'm keeping the petrol donk in mine I want a 2a traytop 109 to put the diesel in...

Cooling in winter is via windows and firewall flaps. Heating, in summer, is via windows and firewall flaps. A heater, if fitted, circulates engine coolant through an electric fan forced radiator right next to your knee.

Series Landies are very easy to work on, apart from seized bolts/nuts... i'm an absolute amateur with mechanics and have struggled a few times but this forum, friends and actually reading the workshop manual helps a lot to that end. A great vehicle to learn mechanicing on i'd say.

My few photos of the modded 2a can be found here:
May 2011 | Facebook
note: you don't need to join fb to view them...I hope

[JayBoRover]

Cooling in winter is via windows and firewall flaps. Heating, in summer, is via windows and firewall flaps.

That is pure gold! I suspect that's going to be a dash label in my S2a

also, do they have any heating? or cooling? or is it just opening up the windows!

After a while you realise the front firewall vents are very effective. I bought my S2a (first LR for me) just before Christmas and drove it through summer to wean myself off my Nissan Patrol. After a few weeks I had to use the Nissan one day for a 54km drive to a work site. It was too quiet, the radio was boring and the DJs stupid, so before half way I had turned the stereo off, turned the air con off and opened the window to let the noise and air in. The lovely looking single bucket seat of the Nissan is not as comfortable as the standard Series seat, although on hot days the sweat-wet bum and back takes some explaining in the office.

All the other Nissan drivers completely ignore me. It's a boring thing to drive. In the six months I used the Landy to see if it was going to be reliable it hasn't let me down, despite doing many 150km odd trips for work. The Nissan has let me down twice in that time despite rare use.

I also learnt a new trick the other week. During a very heavy downpour and while stopped on the Freeway in traffic, I was able to cup my hands together and have a nice refreshing, fresh water drink from the waterfall cascading in from the roof/windscreen/doortop ... much to the great amusement of the guy in a car beside me. Further amusement at work when I came in looking as wet as if I'd ridden a motorcycle to work.

I don't think I'd change it for it anything now. I even walk past the wife's twin turbo Audi to get in DeeDee (Daily Driver) more often than not.

Best of luck.
John B

[The ho har's]

Ahh the series vehicle

What everybody has said is true, if you don't want to spend lots of time and money, then get one that is in reasonable condition.

They are an extremely capable little vehicle.

Yes they are a pleasure to drive, once you get used to the fact that you will get everywhere slower, without airconditioning or heating (in some cases)
though you do get lots of waves

go for it

Mrs hh

[UncleHo]

G'day QWOPPER

Just a few facts on the ownership of a Series2/2a Landrover, they only have a top speed around 85-95KPH or 100KPH down a mine shaft without an overdrive, they have UN-boosted drum brakes,the SWB has 10 inch drums and the LWB has 11 inch drums you can fit an aftermarket booster to them, they do not have power steering,a heater was an extra when these were built,the 2.25 petrol motor will do as much as 20 miles to the gallon (about 25Klms per 4.5 litres) max speed from a 2.25 diesel is about 80/85 Kph,and as said by JoBo heating and cooling is by front vents and windows, also engine heat is via the floor and in summer is quite noticable, but to uninitiated they can come as a shock to the senses,but owners grow to love them,I have had mine for over 20 years now (1968 LW bought it in 86 totally rebuilt it, including a chassis straighten


cheers