Rear Trailing Arms

[CraigE]

While replacing brake pads today noticed that the pass side rear trailing arm / lower link has a bit of a bend in it. What is the best option for replacement? I am thinking about cranked units to allow for the 2" lift. Am I better off going standard cranked units or maybe rose joint units? Obviously rose jont units will be dearer. Who are the best manufacturers and is it worthwhile looking in Australia?
Thanks
Craig

[inside]

I've read rose joints are illegal. Problem is they don't progressively wear like a rubber joint hence they're not allowed. I like these ones http://www.rovertym.com/index.php/De...Bushings.html#

[lambrover]

The rose jointed ones are noisy on road as well as they transmit the road noise into the chassis. I would look in the uk buy a britsh landy mag and look in the adds there are heaps

[ugu80]

Just bought a set of rear trailing arms (rear lower link arms in LR speak) from a UK mob called Adrenaline 4x4. Haven't fitted them yet but they certainly look the part. Good quality 40mm tube steel with 6mm walls. Double cranked for a 50mm (2") lift. They are on Ebay. Took 9 days from order to delivery.

[Slunnie]

I'd just go HD straight ones. Don't go cranked unless you have a specific reason that necessitates them - bent ones are weak by design. If you need the angle up at the chassis mount then try offset bushes at that location.

[ugu80]

I'd just go HD straight ones. Don't go cranked unless you have a specific reason that necessitates them - bent ones are weak by design. If you need the angle up at the chassis mount then try offset bushes at that location.

So what makes them the best arms on the market?

· Firstly we use CDS tube (cold drawn seamless tube) this is one of the best and strongest tubes on the market. This type of tube conforms to FIA specifications when building roll cages and has excellent bending and welding qualities.

· The tubes are bent using a £30,000 plus CNC tube bender. Other companies use cheaper manual benders which you can buy for around £100 from your local DIY shop. Out of interest we stuck one of our trailing arm tubes in a 12 ton one of these and guess what? It Bent the bender before it bent the tube!

· So why don’t we have bits of angle iron welded to the bottom of arms? Simple, the only reason why manufactures do this is because their tube isn’t up to the job to start with.

Sounds pretty strong to me.
p.s. just noticed they've gone up 10 quid since I bought a couple of weeks ago. Good timing for once in my life.

[isuzurover]

Firstly we use CDS tube (cold drawn seamless tube) this is one of the best and strongest tubes on the market. This type of tube conforms to FIA specifications when building roll cages and has excellent bending and welding qualities.

The tubes are bent using a £30,000 plus CNC tube bender. Other companies use cheaper manual benders which you can buy for around £100 from your local DIY shop. Out of interest we stuck one of our trailing arm tubes in a 12 ton one of these and guess what? It Bent the bender before it bent the tube!

So why don’t we have bits of angle iron welded to the bottom of arms? Simple, the only reason why manufactures do this is because their tube isn’t up to the job to start with.

They sound fine, but the same CDS tube without the bend would be stronger. And IMHO for a 2" lift the cranked arms aren't really needed.

Countys have thicker trailing arms than defenders. However I laminated my arms myself by sleeving them with tube (CDS I think). I have air springs, so can run any lift I want - but usually have them set 0-2"

[ugu80]

I reckon 12 ton plus to bend will do me just fine. As to why. Went to 'the Cape' last year and came across a 130 with a left trailing arm imitating a boomerang. Guy said he was coming up slippery slope from one of the creeks (Palm Creek actually) spinning the rear wheels a bit when the left one suddenly caught traction and the rod just gave way. Sort of been worrying me ever since. For me, the peace of mind will be worth it.

[Slunnie]

[QUOTE=ugu80;1508294]

So what makes them the best arms on the market?

· Firstly we use CDS tube (cold drawn seamless tube) this is one of the best and strongest tubes on the market. This type of tube conforms to FIA specifications when building roll cages and has excellent bending and welding qualities.

· The tubes are bent using a £30,000 plus CNC tube bender. Other companies use cheaper manual benders which you can buy for around £100 from your local DIY shop. Out of interest we stuck one of our trailing arm tubes in a 12 ton one of these and guess what? It Bent the bender before it bent the tube!

· So why don’t we have bits of angle iron welded to the bottom of arms? Simple, the only reason why manufactures do this is because their tube isn’t up to the job to start with.

Sounds pretty strong to me.
p.s. just noticed they've gone up 10 quid since I bought a couple of weeks ago. Good timing for once in my life.
[/QUOTE]
The links may be fine, but as said the bend still makes them weaker. You cant defy physics. What is typed is also marketting. The material and manufacture process is nice to know and those aspects are FIA approved, but it doesn't tell you anything about the strength. An $800 JD2 bender will bend that material easily and repeatably all day and all night etc.

This is what the bends induce, and yes this was a HD unbreakable one.

[ugu80]

Actually went to a place called 3rds Productions of Blacktown, famous amongst Nissan the crowd for making trailing arms for Patrols. Found out he has also made a few super strong (and straight) trailing arms for Defenders. Went around there and he has been gone (retired) for a couple of months. Sold the business to another guy but he wouldn't do the Defender arms.