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Thread: OIL LUBRICATED WHEEL BEARING - PUMA

  1. #1
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    OIL LUBRICATED WHEEL BEARING - PUMA

    Hey guy's,

    Can anybody provide an insight or procedure for converting the the "Grease" lubed wheel bearings to "Oil" lubed ? Also what part are required ?

    I am about to up-grade CV's / flanges / axel sets front & rear and it seems like a good time to do this conversion.

    Also would like to hear opinions if this conversion is actually worth while or just don't bother with it ?

    Thanks in advance.

    Cheers
    Grant

  2. #2
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    there is a full thread on it in the good oil,, puma drive line is the same as a td5, simply pull out all diff seals and up geade the hub seals,

  3. #3
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    If your upgrading your axles and cv's to hituff gear, sometimes they will come with the upgraded hub seals for the job, as said you just need to remove the stub axle seal and upgrade the hubseal.
    When re-filling your rear diff, over fill it a bit to allow oil to flow into the hubs, in the front you will need to over fill your swivel hubs abit for the same reason.

    TIM.

  4. #4
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    I removed the outer bearing on my Tdi hubs and filled the cavity with swivel bearing grease and re-assembled. Pat

  5. #5
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    Grant, what you upgrading to/with
    Jason

    2010 130 TDCi

  6. #6
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    Hi Newhue,

    I am up grading to all Ashcroft products.

    I made the order on Wednesday night only to get a call last night to explain that they have no stock of the drive flanges. So I am on back order for about 3 weeks.

    Also getting Ashcroft’s 4340 alloy steel CV's and 4340 alloy steel front and rear half shafts.

    Ashcroft are splitting up the order and shipping in 2 consignments to keep each purchase under $1000 AUD's.

    Even with the freight, it is a joke how much cheaper it is dealing with these guy's direct.

    Cheers

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drover View Post
    Also would like to hear opinions if this conversion is actually worth while or just don't bother with it ?
    It is most definitely worth it. I have never had to replace a wheel bearing on a landie with oil lubricated hubs (due to wear or rust, anyway).

    Common oiling (diff to hub) is the way to go. You basically need to remove all internal oil seals between the hub and the diff centre. On earlier 110s this means the stub axle seal and the seal between the swivel housing and the diff.
    Then replace the hub seals with the upgraded type.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drover View Post
    Hi Newhue,

    I am up grading to all Ashcroft products.

    I made the order on Wednesday night only to get a call last night to explain that they have no stock of the drive flanges. So I am on back order for about 3 weeks.

    Also getting Ashcroft’s 4340 alloy steel CV's and 4340 alloy steel front and rear half shafts.

    Ashcroft are splitting up the order and shipping in 2 consignments to keep each purchase under $1000 AUD's.

    Even with the freight, it is a joke how much cheaper it is dealing with these guy's direct.

    Cheers
    yes have scoped that myself. Planning a locker, axels, and flanges for the rear in due course.

    Be interested to find how your shafts look and what klm's you have on them when you pull them. I assume they won't be all bad, but are you looking at fixing what LR should have done anyway.
    Jason

    2010 130 TDCi

  9. #9
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    Hey Newhue,

    The Missus and I have got a lot of touring around planned for the PUMA and lot of it will find us in remote areas.

    The goal is to bullet proof it as much as possible to eliminate any major issues arising in wrong place at the wrong time.

    Do it once and do it right

    Cheers

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