Standard Oil Filters on 101

[stuee]

Have been reading up on 101 filters on the UK club forum and there is quite a bit of debate about what oil filters are acceptable to use (anti-drain valve vs no anti-drain valve in the standard filter). Just wanting to know if the Aussie 101'ers use standard filters (ERR3340) or ordering in the 101 filters from the UK.

From what I gather the main issue is priming the filter after the vehicle has been stationary for a period of time as the filter is upright, but there's conflicting reports on whether or not the filter stays primed. What is everyone's experience on this?

[jakeslouw]

Filter can only unprime if it is upside down?

Surely the 101 V8 has the filter in basically the same place as the normal V8s?

That being said, some Mercedes engines have an upside-down oil filter on the top of the block, and don't seem to have any issues.

[101 Ron]

I use a Z9 with no issuses and they are cheap as chips and foumd every where.
I have had no oil pump priming problems and my 101 is a weekend warrior and may sit for up to Two weeks at a time.
Priming problems is more related to the standard oil pressure, ignition cut out switch fitted and best thrown away.
I believe the switch is the cause of the myth and also for the need to prime the oil pump with light grease before starting the engine after a overhaul.

[101RRS]

Filter can only unprime if it is upside down?

Which it is.

Surely the 101 V8 has the filter in basically the same place as the normal V8s?

No it is not

That being said, some Mercedes engines have an upside-down oil filter on the top of the block, and don't seem to have any issues.

The 101s do not

Comments in read

[101RRS]

I saw those comments on the 101 Club site before I was kicked off - the nanna's were alive and well. You only need to prime the oil pump if things have been pulled apart.

My 101 sat for 8 years and started with full oil pressure without priming. The amount of oil pooling a various spots in the oil pump/filter system is enough to prime - pull it apart and that is a different matter.

As Ron has indicated - Z9s are the go. The main issue is the mess you get when when taking the old filter out with oil running out everywhere from their upside down position.

Now in your position with engine out etc - I would probably prime it before you start.

Garry

[stuee]

I use a Z9 with no issuses and they are cheap as chips and foumd every where.
I have had no oil pump priming problems and my 101 is a weekend warrior and may sit for up to Two weeks at a time.
Priming problems is more related to the standard oil pressure, ignition cut out switch fitted and best thrown away.
I believe the switch is the cause of the myth and also for the need to prime the oil pump with light grease before starting the engine after a overhaul.

Thats interesting what you say about the ignition cut out oil pressure switch. I hadn't considered this for the first start-up as I was only going to temporarily wire things up to check the motor actually work. If it goes fine without it I will leave it out of the final wiring loom.

Cheers for the heads up on the Z9's. Means I can get these from Repco or the like any-time. And sub $10 is even better

[dandlandyman]

If yours is an earlier V8, it may not be a z9. It could be a z30. z30 is imperial thread, while z9 is metric. Wisdom learned from playing with an early Rangie. Both very common filters - z9 fits old Falcons and Landcruisers, z30 fits red Holden motors. There are short versions also available where space is an issue.

Dan.
69 2A 88" pet4 (still in disguise), 68 2B FC pet6 (still resting), plus others and more coming.

[101RRS]

If yours is an earlier V8, it may not be a z9.

The 101 V8 which is has differences to other 3.5s uses a Z9 filter.

Garry

[stuee]

Picked up some Z9's from super cheap and to my surprise they have an anti-drain valve in them. And they only cost just under $8!! I wish all parts where this cheap. Now to sus out the fuel filters...



Can see red valve in this pic:

[101RRS]

Now to sus out the fuel filters...

Have fun with that - if you still have the original setup make sure you keep the original filter because there are a lot of nearly fit version but they don't - so check out early RR versions but have your old one with you when you buy to compare - there is some tractor filter that can be bought from specialist filter shops but I cannot remember what the model number etc is.

I stripped the thread in my filter bowl housing so have replaced the whole thing with a generic in line filter - works fine and you can see if there is any crud in there.

Garry