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Thread: 2nd battery - Thumper or Projecta?

  1. #1
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    Question 2nd battery - Thumper or Projecta?

    Hello

    Have been looking at range of secondary power options over the last few months and wondering if a 'thumper' battery or projector jump starter/power box would be a more versatile option than a hard wired second battery under the bonnet?

    Considerations are the following (sorry using eBay links- just confirming I have no interest in the sale of these items )


    60 AH Thumper 12v Deep Cycle AGM Dual Battery System Jumpstarter Pack Fridge Kit | eBay

    THUMPER 60 AH DUAL BATTERY JUMP STARTER 12V + BONUSES | eBay

    PROJECTA HP2012 JUMPSTARTER 12V 2000AMP JUMP STARTER DEEP CYCLE AGM BATTERY | eBay

    PROJECTA HP2200 JUMPSTARTER 12VOLT AND 24VOLT 2200AMP JUMP STARTER BATTERY | eBay

    Couple of questions.
    I am assuming I don't need a duel battery isolator like an Traxide system to have one of these in the back of D4 charging? If I do can someone explain?

    Has anyone used these particular portable power options? Any preference? The thumper might have more AMP hours, however the size/shape of the projector And one top handle carrying with leads wrapped in is appealing.

    Should I just a get a duel battery system under the bonnet? I have shyed away from this on reading about having to move a few things under the bonnet of the D4, and concerned about warranty on such an electrical dependant vehicle.

    Appreciate your thoughts.

  2. #2
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    Hi gotaflat, I am working a unit using the exact same case as the Projecta units, but I have a few adjustments to make before it will be available.

    In either case, you still need a dual battery system or plan on doing a lot of driving, because they charge very slowly off the cigarette socket and the standard D4 socket is only powered while the ignition is on.

    What is more important is what do you want the auxiliary power for?

  3. #3
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    When I bought my D4 I initially used a 75AH Thumper as power to my ARB fridge, charging via a Traxide Unit wired to the rear cargo area, but eventually decided after seeing how others had so successfully managed to put an Optima yellowtop in the 2nd batter space under the bonnet - I went down this route and glad I have. Much safer too having that weight tied down safely where it was designed to go. I had this set up on my D3 and I have to say its preferred for ease of use. Opposite Lock moved the bits and pieces in the 2nd battery case for me - they have now done many I suspect - and it looks factory fitted. I'd go this route.

    cheers

  4. #4
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    Thanks drivesafe.

    I am interested in your new unit (and what trackside d4 system I should put in)

    Basically I have a bushman fridge which I place and secure in the back of the D4. I run this when touring to different places, but on camping have no means of power for the fridge. This is not intended to be for long stays, however want to keep the fridge running at stops and in a camp situation. It's reasonable that I would pull the fridge out of the disco and have located out side or in an another vehicle from time to time. However... Most importantly in case the main battery in the car goes flat, I have something to power/start the D4. It's reasonable to have a second battery under the bonnet however covers some of my concerns previously. Also back in the farm we carry around a second battery which we use to jump tractors etc so replace this practice with a thumper or projector unit (thus why the project 2200amp might be best given the Tractors, loader and header etc are .... Large diesels!). Although, I am still researching what CCAs each unit can handle

  5. #5
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    The other consideration is that these thumpers etc are about twice the cost of a of a good deep cycle battery. The cost of wiring etc to operate both would be similar.

    I would be tempted to put in a dual system and buy a cheap power pack from Supercheap etc for your other requirements - I have a 1200cca/24a/hr version from SCA - cost $110 a couple of years ago and still works well - will run my 55l fridge in summer for 24 hours.

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  6. #6
    Disomania Guest
    I used a thumper AND an istalled daul system in my D1. Why? Well, it meant that I could set up camp for a few days and take the fridge out of the car when we had to put the tent up and walk a distance to the car. If we went on a day trip, the fridge of course went back into the car and ran on the installed batter, and the heavy duty charge kit that came with the thumper charged that to capacity.

    I guess I really had 3 x batteries this way.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by gotaflat View Post
    if a 'thumper' battery or projector jump starter/power box would be a more versatile option than a hard wired second battery under the bonnet?
    I once had a thumper in the back of my old "jimny". useless piece of gear. I ended up adding a secondary battery under the bonnet.

    These jump starter are useless.

    Do it properly. Even at BCF you can buy a battery box with some extra stuff on the top (I once saw), which might do the job better and cheaper.

  8. #8
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    Thanks for your replies.

    I am feeling like a fish out of water on this
    Feels like I should be going for a battery under the bonnet (can always for the thumper/portable after - its just extra cost).

    Has anyone had a any warranty probs with the moving of parts under the bonnet and install of the second battery and Traxide duel battery system?

    Cheers

  9. #9
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    Not me - and I showed the LRA Service guys - they said "neat job".

  10. #10
    Jaksbak Guest
    It's been a few months but I thought I might add my 50c worth as I faced this dilemma a few times. I ended up with an incredibly flexible system that can be installed on any vehicle and can just as easily be moved from one to the other. The dilemma started when I owned a Toyota Surf Petrol (Hilux) with no room for a 2nd battery under the bonnet. I now have a new SD4 Freelander 2 which I take bush all the time and it similarly doesn't have any space for a 2nd battery under the bonnet. What I did was run a heavy duty wiring system from the starting battery, underneath the vehicle and up to a 50amp Anderson Plug. The plug was placed either in the rear cargo area (via one of the rubber 'plugs' underneath) or to a spot adjacent to the trailer plug at the rear. To this Anderson Plug is connected an Inverter. In my case, a 600W Projecta Inverter. From the inverter, a normal 10amp 240v extension cord hooks up to my battery charger (in my case a 7-stage 8amp Projecta) which is them connected to the auxillory depp-cycle battery. Sometimes, the charger/battery combo is in the back of the forby (eg: if I'm doing a quick overnighter with a tent) whilst on other occasions they're in the storage box at the front of my camper trailer or caravan. The beauty of this system is it's flexibility. Everything is interchangable. When camping, I unhook the inverter from the Anderson Plug and connect it to the aux batt it to watch DVD's or to run other smaller appliances. The Battery Charger is also used at home/work to charge all manner of batteries. Incredibly flexible. I generally only use the system I've described above on long drives as I have a 120W solar panel and regulator the rest of the time, but there have been occasions in shady campsites where I use the Freelander 2 (via the above set up) to top-up the batteries. It's not as quick charging as a decent duel battery system (max 8amps in my case), but it does overcome voltage drop issues (common with camper trailer and caravan charging via many duel systems that run charging cables all the way from the front of the forby). You also have to remember to turn off the inverter (or charger) if you stop for long periods, otherwise you might drain the starter battery. Otherwise KISS principle.

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