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Thread: Steel kit home experiences

  1. #1
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    Steel kit home experiences

    Obviously searching AULRO on steel kit and home brings up a zillion responses none of which seem to help!

    Just after direct experience with any of the many steel kits available these days.
    Current concerns before going this route include internal fitout (timber door and window jams into steel frame) and the issue of timber floor boards to steel joists. (timber boards are a non negotiable)
    Obviously everything is possible, just after any experiences. Local builder mate is steering me towards a more traditional treated stick built on steel posts and bearers with glue lam joist.

    Major issues for the site is termites and borers (rainforest block) and containing cost!

    Project will be under owner build permit.

    Thanks,
    Steve

  2. #2
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    My parent built a stell kit home in Hervey Bay in 1985 to retire into, and it is still standing and ok and it is on the beach front. We built our house in Gladstone in 1988 and we sold it in 2008 and the steelwork was still ok, even the woodwork was still ok. Eldest daughter had her house built in1998 of steel by the same bloke who did ours. The steel kit homes finished by a builder were ony $400 extra, definitely money well spent. Traditional builders will always try to steer you to what they want to do for you, not what you want them to do for you. I helped my parents build 3 houses out of wood and after dong 3 with steel, for me it is the way to go but bieng a fitter and turner, I may be a bit biased. I still cannot weld wood.

  3. #3
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    I have been living in an owner built steel frame kit house for sixteen years. There were no problems with fittinjg door frames, window frames etc once you get your mindset from the "nail it" to the "screw it" attitude. Normal construction glues seem to stick to the steel especially if it is wiped with a turps soaked rag a bit before.

    I can't really comment on putting a wooden floor onto joists, as I built on a slab. However, I can't imagine there would be any problems once you accept the use of screws rather than nails. (it would be possible to screw wooden battens to the rops of the joists if you feel the need to nail the boards) In this respect, I found that for attaching wood to the frame, the screws to use are ones designed for the purpose, with a drill point, then a smooth section greater than the thickness of the wood before the thread starts.

    Apart from the kit supplier, we used a concreter, a plumber and an electrician, and did everything else ourselves (myself and my wife, with help from son, d-i-l, nephew etc).

    Took about eighteen months from start to move-in.

    I can see no drawbacks to the use of a steel frame, and several advantages compared to timber apart from the resistance to termites - dimensions are accurate, and do not change with weather. If building again I would not even consider anything else.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  4. #4
    d@rk51d3 Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post
    once you get your mindset from the "nail it" to the "screw it" attitude.
    That's my attitude for most things..

  5. #5
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    Steel frame has pros and cons.
    Biggest would be the noise a steel frame can make when big weather changes take place etc.
    They have a good fit and where termites are present it be the way to go.
    With the timber floor boards, there are secret fixing methods now and all sorts.
    Finding studs/noggings to hand pictures or plasma brackets will have to be thought out better and perhaps reinforsed prior to lining stage.
    As far as getting true walls are concerned, a lazer is used and its usually spot on, even bottom plates are just tek screwed if using pole platform type of construction.
    Thumbs up.
    Make sure you line and insulate underside of floor as the cold rising is tremendous.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by big guy View Post
    .........
    Make sure you line and insulate underside of floor as the cold rising is tremendous.
    Er,.... I doubt that is a serious problem in Cooktown!

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  7. #7
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    We built in 1996 a stud framed house using the Tuff Span frames and is excellent.
    On the roof an wall we have Air cell insulation between the cladding and the frames.
    Here in Moore Park Beach we do not need air condition at all.
    Because the internal wall are not bearing you can place them to your taste or needs.
    Before this house we built a house based on an American barn. Nice house but was based on portal frames so was noise and expensive to build.

  8. #8
    mike 90 RR Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by roverrescue View Post
    Just after direct experience with any of the many steel kits available these days.

    They are Exy for the money (Kit homes in general) ... Just buy the steel studding and make it yourself ....


    Current concerns before going this route include internal fitout (timber door and window jams into steel frame)

    Exactly the same methods as Timber framed ....


    and the issue of timber floor boards to steel joists. (timber boards are a non negotiable)

    2 ways here .....

    A: .... Place 70 x 35 on edge on top of the steel joists and then fix the boards to it

    B: ... Lay down the Structafloor sheeting ... then glue the floor boards to it


    Obviously everything is possible, just after any experiences.

    Steel frame is a brilliant product ....


    Local builder mate is steering me towards a more traditional treated stick built on steel posts and bearers with glue lam joist.

    Typical builder response ....

    Major issues for the site is termites and borers (rainforest block) and containing cost!

    Project will be under owner build permit.

    No need for the builders input then ....

    Thanks,
    Steve

    I drew up plans for my cousin in Steel frame on Concrete slab .... 360sqm ... He built the whole house himself .... His profession is "Brickpaver"

    The only cheat he did, was have a steel frame manufacturer build the walls and truss roof ... The rest was his labour ....

    Steel frame? ... Basically replace the nails with Tek screws ... and the wood saw with a metal drop saw ...... ($100) Chainsaw with the ol 9" angle grinder

    Plus .... Doesn't steel frame resists Cyclones better?

    Cheers
    Mike

  9. #9
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    We have a steel frame kit home. We had a builder mate put it together who mostly does timber including old queenlander homes and he was skeptical about the whole idea but was impressed by the end. We have wooden flooors but they are laid on ply fixed to the steel joists.

    As for being a kit home you would not know. All new homes are kit homes nowdays anyway even if done by a builder.

  10. #10
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    Goodluck with the project,its something I have always wanted to do.
    A word of warning with your floors.A mate went steel as he was in a termite area,the rotters ate his floors out un-noticed.
    They built mud tunnels up the steel stumps and got stuck into the plywood.They also dont mind a chew on the Gyprock either!!!
    It was BIG $$$$ to repair.
    Make sure your design incorporates termite monitoring and the ability to check the under-floor cavity.
    ENJOY
    Andrew
    DISCOVERY IS TO BE DISOWNED
    Midlife Crisis.Im going to get stuck into mine early and ENJOY it.
    Snow White MY14 TDV6 D4
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    I made the 1 millionth AULRO post

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