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Thread: Replacing D3 door seals

  1. #1
    Alan43 Guest

    Question Replacing D3 door seals

    My drivers door seal is damaged as a result of the seat belt getting caught all the time. Has anyone tried to purchase and replace one? It looks like quite a job?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
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    California
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    Mine are in a similar state. Curious what they price out at. Don't think its that big a job. Without looking in the manual it is probably just a case of removing the bottom door sill trim (watch out for the clips they can come of and slip into the bottom of the sill area - nearly impossible to get back out, but easy enough to get at the hardware stoore, just pick them out carefully with long nose pliers). The rest of the job looks like just fitting the seal which should be easy.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
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    I think you can get away without removing the trim on the sill. I think the seal is glued onto a lip and simply sits on top of the trim.

    I had to pull part of my drivers door seal off to fit the traxide power extension kit.
    06 SE V6 Discovery 3

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
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    Parkdale, Melbourne
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    It's glued on, I remember watching the robots fitting them when doing the tour round Solihull last year. Comes off a roll with a red backing and gets rolled onto the door aperture in about 5 seconds flat, somehow I think it may take a little longer to rip off and refit

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
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    California
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    Here's what I found.

    The door seal is attached to the welded flange all the way round.
    A damaged or worn door seal must always be renewed in full. When renewing the seal, the
    following must be taken into account: Always fit the seal first in the area of the narrow radii (corner points). Next,
    secure the seal to the flange evenly by tapping lightly with a rubber hammer. The installed seal must not be kinked

    at any point.

    Dont think it too tough if we are talking about the weatherstripping around the door. From memory you need to remove the scuff plate which is made a little easier by removing the B pillar trim at least some. The weatherstripping just comes right off and goes back on easy enough. Just have watch the clips on the bottom of the scuff plate trim they are a bugger if you lose them inside the floor. Taken this off a few times no worries, but have only ever removed a part of the weatherstripping. 15 minute job if you have done it before, 30 mins if you want to think about it. BTW I never encountered glue, but I never removed the section of the weather stripping at the bottom. The B Pillar trim an the scuff plate basically just pop of pull off.


    Cheers
    Attached Files Attached Files
    Last edited by jz-is-fishing; 16th February 2012 at 05:07 PM. Reason: Addition

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
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    Sydney
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    These seals are just crap, I have just gone through my 4th one in 3 years.

    Always drivers side, always just below the seat level at the rear. Anyone found either a better aftermarket one, or a nice cheap source for OE ones?

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
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    Narre Warren Nth, Melbourne
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    Mine is the same on the edge just behind the drivers seat....

    Where and how much are new ones?

    Cheers
    Ben

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
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    So far mine have been from the dealer and under warranty. Now not under warranty so looking for alternatve.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
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    Gold Coast
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    I need a drivers door one to so if there is a cheaper option I'd be interested in finding out where and how much as well.

    cheers,
    Terry
    Cheers,
    Terry

    D1 V8 (Gone)
    D2a HSE V8 (Gone)
    D3 HSE TDV6 (Unfortunately Gone)
    D4 V8

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