Installing kit on Thor P38

[ytt105]

I've just received the front end kit to instal on my Thor P38. I've got a couple of detail questions to ask the experienced installers out there.

The injectors and spuds need to be screwed into injector rail and manifold. Should I use a threadlocker or plumbers tape for screw joints.

I'm going to run the coolant lines from the throttle heater pipes. Is the OK.

I plan to place the ECU into the void near the battery.

There is an outlet on the front of the Thor manifold that is capped and I believe it is probably a good vacumm source. Am I correct?

I'm sure there will be more questions as I proceed from just taking the bits out of the box.

[bee utey]

I've just received the front end kit to instal on my Thor P38. I've got a couple of detail questions to ask the experienced installers out there.

The injectors and spuds need to be screwed into injector rail and manifold. Should I use a threadlocker or plumbers tape for screw joints.

I'm going to run the coolant lines from the throttle heater pipes. Is the OK.

I plan to place the ECU into the void near the battery.

There is an outlet on the front of the Thor manifold that is capped and I believe it is probably a good vacumm source. Am I correct?

I'm sure there will be more questions as I proceed from just taking the bits out of the box.

243 thread locker

Use 10mm heater hose, bypass throttle heater, you don't need it

Gas ECU fits there, should be fine

MAP sensor needs its own dedicated vacuum line, you should have enough nipples to plumb it. Converter can be run to the vac hose connection you mentioned.

[ytt105]

The story so far!!

The kit from NGV looks pretty good, seems to have all the bits, even has heat shrink for the electrical connections.

I've fitted the convertor to the passenger side using the support for the shock absorber. Fits well. As luck would have I found an old clutch cable support from an old Alfa Guila that fit perfectly with a bit of twisting and welding.

The ECU fit easily into the void near the battery, the vacuum control is placed near it and even the inside switch wiring wasn't too hard to get through the fire wall.

I placed the switch on the instrument panel opposite the fuel lid button. Not too sure how well that will work as I didn't notice how much I will have to reach around the wheel to press it when driving until after I had fitted it.

I'll bit the bullet and take off the manifold to start drilling this week!

A question while I've got you, the kit came with a plastic 'Y' piece to connect both injector rails after leaving the filter. It also came with an additional hose fitting that would allow me to install both rails in series, then no need for the 'Y' piece.

Which is the better way of doing it?

Also, Bee Utey has advised that I use separate vacuum ports for the pressure sensor and the convertor. I've found one point on the end of the upper manifold, any idea where I will find another one, or do I have to add one? Where will I put it?

[bee utey]

Y piece reduces pressure loss along the row of injectors at full noise. Much better than 8 in line.

Your gas switch is (usually) also the gauge, can you see it when installed?

Drill and tap a vacuum connection somewhere in the plenum part of the manifold. My kit instructions recommend nearer the throttle body side. Definitely not where any one cylinder runner would affect the vacuum signal.

[ytt105]

The injectors supplied with the kit have 250 written on them, presumably 2.5mm hole.
The documentation that came with the kit says that for engines over 4000cc I should use injectors of 2.7 to 3.0.
What will be the best size to use.
I have a 3.0mm drill bit already to go but don't want to end up too big if experience says it should be smaller.

[bee utey]

The injectors supplied with the kit have 250 written on them, presumably 2.5mm hole.
The documentation that came with the kit says that for engines over 4000cc I should use injectors of 2.7 to 3.0.
What will be the best size to use.
I have a 3.0mm drill bit already to go but don't want to end up too big if experience says it should be smaller.

Probably best to ask the kit supplier as to how it will go. You can only upsize the jets by drilling. Any engineering shop should sell drill bits in 0.1mm steps. If the jets are on the injectors run the 2.5's and see how it calibrates.

[ytt105]

Bee Utey advised fitting the RPM pickup to the negative of one of the coil packs.

I've looked at the ETM and think that would be the white wire as both coils have a white wire and the other 2 wires seem to go to each coil output.

Can anyone confirm?

Ready to start refitting the manifold, etc.
Boy, you have to take a lot of stuff off to get to the inlet manifold!

Took the opportunity to do all the coolant hoses, new radiator, etc.

[bee utey]

Bee Utey advised fitting the RPM pickup to the negative of one of the coil packs.

I've looked at the ETM and think that would be the white wire as both coils have a white wire and the other 2 wires seem to go to each coil output.

Can anyone confirm?

Ready to start refitting the manifold, etc.
Boy, you have to take a lot of stuff off to get to the inlet manifold!

Took the opportunity to do all the coolant hoses, new radiator, etc.

Coil output? What is that? The spark plugs leads are the coil outputs.

Can't see any plain white wires at either coil in my wiring diagram. There's a red wire and a blue wire at one coil, then a white/blue stripe and a pink/black stripe wire at the other coil. Any 1 of these will do. The green wires (1 yellow stripe 1 brown stripe) are +12V from the ignition.

Make sure you aren't trying to connect to the wires' co-ax shielding, THAT would be useless for your signal.

[ytt105]

Well I've done my bit!

Took almost a week for an old fart like me to fit the NGV front end kit to the Rangie.

Boy you have a to take a lot of stuff of the V8 to get to the inlet manifold!

No real problems with pulling it all apart, except for the fact that you find stuff that you know you have to fix now rather than later, like a new thermostat and radiator.

The kit was very good and the support from the seller was excellent! Several emails were sent and received which answered any questions or queries I had. He also sent me some additional injector hose as the original supply was insufficient. All in all I fully recommend this system, although at this stage I'm not running on gas yet but everthing seems pretty good.

My next step is to get the local gas man to supply and fit a tank, filler and plumb up all the gas bits and make it work.

Then I should be able to claim the rebate and see if its all worth while now that gas has gone to the stratosphere. 93cpl at one servo and 74cpl at another, very strange!

Very big thrill when it started on petrol after all that work and rewirring of injectors!

[bee utey]

Ah, that V8 burble, good to hear after a major effort! I suspect the gas price will drift down again, there's no reason to think that this time it won't, when it has returned to below half of petrol many times in the last 25 years.