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Thread: check your TD5 turbo heat shield

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    check your TD5 turbo heat shield

    Removed my Turbo heat shield to access /remove the oil cooler water pipe and found the Heat shield had almost rubbed thru it

    Under the turbo shield (3 bolts to remove) you will see this rubber pipe .


    here is the damage to mine



    I got to it just in time, This could result in a catastrophe if you don't inspect / remedy. You could just bend the shield but I'm not putting mine back on.

    I also removed the pipe as its not needed anymore because it normally runs to the EGR cooler which I don't have. Another thing not to go wrong.
    Mine is now blanked with some silicone hose & a bung.



    I also found a broken manifold stud - time to remove & deweb I suppose.

  2. #2
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    Thanks for that Goingbush, I'll have to check mine.
    Now that it's got a couple of hundred thousand km's on it, it's at that age when things can go wrong.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by goingbush View Post
    Removed my Turbo heat shield to access /remove the oil cooler water pipe and found the Heat shield had almost rubbed thru it

    Under the turbo shield (3 bolts to remove) you will see this rubber pipe .


    here is the damage to mine



    I got to it just in time, This could result in a catastrophe if you don't inspect / remedy. You could just bend the shield but I'm not putting mine back on.

    I also removed the pipe as its not needed anymore because it normally runs to the EGR cooler which I don't have. Another thing not to go wrong.
    Mine is now blanked with some silicone hose & a bung.



    I also found a broken manifold stud - time to remove & deweb I suppose.
    May I ask what year D2 you have? Did you take out the EGR cooler, the reason I ask is my 1999 D2 wasn't fitted with an EGR cooler, the hose from the oil cooler passed directly to the bottom of the radiator, then out to the fuel cooler, from there , via a thermostat on the back end of the fuel cooler, either to the heater matrix, or back to the water pump inlet, after the thermostat opens at 82 degrees C. [ A hose from the plastic expansion tank joins this return.] The photo of the small hose from the oil cooler shows a hose about to fail, thru the heat generated in this area. These hoses should be inspected occasionally. The broken stud is a result of the high temps. and repair is mentioned elsewere in the forum. I hope I'm not speaking out of turn, but any disruption to the cooling system on a TD5 can be disasterous, Bob
    I’m pretty sure the dinosaurs died out when they stopped gathering food and started having meetings to discuss gathering food

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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by bob10 View Post
    May I ask what year D2 you have? Did you take out the EGR cooler, the reason I ask is my 1999 D2 wasn't fitted with an EGR cooler, the hose from the oil cooler passed directly to the bottom of the radiator, then out to the fuel cooler, from there , via a thermostat on the back end of the fuel cooler, either to the heater matrix, or back to the water pump inlet, after the thermostat opens at 82 degrees C. [ A hose from the plastic expansion tank joins this return.] The photo of the small hose from the oil cooler shows a hose about to fail, thru the heat generated in this area. These hoses should be inspected occasionally. The broken stud is a result of the high temps. and repair is mentioned elsewere in the forum. I hope I'm not speaking out of turn, but any disruption to the cooling system on a TD5 can be disasterous, Bob
    Hi Bob
    My D2 is a 2005 Defender, The EGR was removed when I bought it, but the EGR cooler was replaced with a length of 1/2" copper pipe to complete the water path. The coolant circuits are a little different on Discos / Defer. Originally mine went from the Oil cooler hose into the metal pipe behind the block then along the right side of the block to the egr cooler at the front then back along the right side of the block and into a plastic 4 way hose connector under the coolant reservoir. I have completely removed all that pipework & replaced the 4 way with a 3 way 5/8 brass tee.



    The Oil cooler does not need a pipe connected as the cooler sits over a hole in the block where 3 welsh plugs would normally be so is in the full flow of the coolant. I'm confident that removing the superfluous piping will result in less trouble. I also did a full flush & replaced the OAT with Castrol green coolant & it runs about 8 deg cooler. The fuel cooler on mine has its own set of hoses running from the bottom side of the radiator to the fuel cooler then across under the radiator & into a joiner under the water pump, using about 2 meters of hose in all. Plenty to go wrong there too.

    Thanks for the tip on the broken stud, I found the threads on the topic & have ordered new manifold gasket stud set & will deweb the manifold.

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