Brake bleeders

[zulu Delta 534]

My brake cylinders (part #212912 and #232078 - faulty ones) have recently been sleeved simply because there are very few replacement brake cylinders suitable for a S1 on the market today. Unfortunately after going to this expense, and also replacing hoses and pipes as well as shoes I now find that two out of the four bleeder screws won't bleed. I have checked to make sure that the liners haven't moved and that the holes still line up with the bleeder hole, so the problem is not there.
These particular bleeders are concave on the end and press a ball bearing on to a seat to seal, which mine do extremely well. So well in fact that the bearing stays stuck on/in the seat and will not release. I have attempted to bleed with a vacuum system and also with the old system of pumping up the pedal and releasing but the ball bearing firstly wont let go in either of the two cylinders to let any compressed air out, and secondly I can't get enough pressure to build up using the pedal to free the bleeder.
What is the next step without buying a new set of cylinders from the Poms.
Can I fit a bigger bearing and expect it to seal?
Or more to the point does anyone know of another cylinder that will fit and that may even have metric threads in it allowing a ball-bearing free seating arrangement?
Regards
A rather frustrated Glen

[123rover50]

**** the ball bearing off and just use the normal pointy nipple type. Still seems to seal.

[LRO53]

**** the ball bearing off and just use the normal pointy nipple type. Still seems to seal.

Yes this is what i normally do as well. You can get the pointy ones brand new and they work quite well.

Another issue which is quite common with them is the bleed screw can get quite rounded and no longer fits any spanner. I've also seen the thread can get damaged. To get around this i've found my brake place fits an adaptor allowing for a new bleed nipple to be fitted which seals perfectly.

[Blknight.aus]

you can just use the next size bearing as well. Getting the bearings out once they have grown into the ally of the housing is an "interesting" experience.

[zulu Delta 534]

you can just use the next size bearing as well. Getting the bearings out once they have grown into the ally of the housing is an "interesting" experience.

I know what you mean Dave, have spent the best part of the day, after sourcing some larger bearings, and still no success. Its getting that way that I am starting to wish there was a cliff handy that I could push the thing over.
Regards
Glen

[Blknight.aus]

I reckon I could get a trailer you could push it up onto and then I'll tell you I free wheeled it over a cliff for you....

[zulu Delta 534]

Eventually got the little blighters out with a bit of bent bike spoke. Refitted some larger bearings that cost me $2.00 from the local cycle shop (came complete in a race so I now have some spares!)
Have bled the lines extensively but finding I am still having major problems with the pedal.
The Master cylinder is now under suspicion so tomorrow morning I will strip that down as I tend to suspect it may not have been assembled correctly when it was re-sleeved.
It sure is in an easy place to access once the fuel tank lines, hand brake and seat box has all been neatly replaced around it, as I made the stupid assumption that a newly reconditioned part wouldn't be faulty. One of these days I will learn!
Keep that trailer handy Dave, the way these brakes are going you never can tell.
Regards
Glen

[series1buff]

those ball bleeders are an absolute pain , probably why LR dropped them .

You are far better off fitting new series 2/3 cylinders and the adapters . The adapters are available from DUNSFOLDS . I think 4X4's in Melbourne had them too . The adapters fit between the brake hoses and the series 2/3 cylinders which have conventional bleeders .

BTW the original ball bledeers use a BSF or similar weird thread which is not easy to find

Mike

[Bundy]

Also make sure you have some free play between the master cylinder push rod and the piston. Does not need to be much but must have some. If none at all causes all sorts of brake problems. Check the book for specs.