Clutching at straws

[hesguitar]

Hi all,
Here's my issue

I have bought a Dellow kit to fit a blue 202 in my 2a 6 cyl.
Dellow specify a 9 1/2 inch clutch for the 2 dowel flywheel they have made me.

Apparently this pressure plate does not exist, I thought I could re machine the flywheel to have three dowels but the point where the throw bearing engages is 6 mm too far away due to the adaptor plate.

Strangely they have accounted for this distance for the center of the flywheel so the input shaft still sits where it should but not the friction plate face.

I asked Dellow and they said the right clutch will solve my problems - But I can't find one, so before I ring them for the third time and send it back to Sydney I thought I'd better consult the collected knowledge of this forum and check that I haven't just been looking in the wrong places.

Any help would be so greatly appreciated

[NiteMare]

it sounds like they are suggesting you use the 2a 9.5" pressure plate which has a boss in the centre of the fingers for the release to press against

Ap Clutch Cover 9.5 (571228) From Brookwells Land Rover Parts

i know nothing at all of Holden conversions so i could be way off the mark

[hesguitar]

It's been a few months (with uni and a complete rewire taking up my time) and despite my concerns about the 6mm difference between the standard and aftermarket flywheel distance from the gearbox; I followed the advice of Dellow and others who've used the same kits i went ahead put the engine in.

I really hope my original concerns were unfounded but the clutch won't disengage from the engine and there's a grinding noise with pedal in.

Obviously the noise means the engine is coming out again (aaarrrgh!) but before i get things machined the fix clearance problems i'd like to check the expected travel of the clutch slave (it's been bled and the push rod has been set according to the manual) just in case it's not moving things far enough.

Help is, as always, very appreciated

[Homestar]

This might sound dumb, but is the clutch friction plate in the right way around? Only reason I ask, is that this may have happened to me once changing the clutch on my mates 1 tonner. Too much alcohol may have been involved, but it did exactly what you just described. Luckily we were in a fully equipped workshop with hoist and trannie hoist, so it only took 3/4 hour to put right....

If not, then you have some clearances not right - as you said, I think you are pulling the engine out again to check.

Best of luck - keep us posted.

[hesguitar]

Hey that's not a bad point - I've never put one in backwards but if I was going to start it would be on this car!! If my inattention during assembly is the cause, a small amount of embarrassment and a day's work it's far better than the alternative.

I'll be sure to post the results

[landrover dave]

I have had this problem before!
Most of the adaptor plates are a nominal 2" between motor and gearbox!
NOTE NOMINAL 2"!!!! Not all arre the same thickness.
I bought a flywheel off Rod Hadfield to suit a 2" conversion kit, guess what it was about 1/4" or 6.5mm to thick!
I ended up using a Marks adaptor plate, with a Johnson's flywheel, S3 bellhousing clutch and pressure plate, late 2A gearbox. I removed the dowels cos they didnt match the pressure plate and just relied on the bolts for location!
On top of all that my bolt pattern on my 2.25 was drilled to the 6cyl pattern.
So good luck!

[hesguitar]

The engine came out today, sadly the friction plate was in the right way (i've never been so annoyed to be right). I'm a bit disappointed but everything can be fixed, I'll take some measurements then head to the engineer on tuesday.

Mix and match sounds slightly more painful .

Mine's a 2 inch kit that needs that extra 6.5mm in the flywheel!!! Seems there are many ways to skin a cat/land rover