diff upgrade options

[c.h.i.e.f]

recently i have pulled the front diff out from under my 110 county as i am doing alot of engine modifications its a tad easier with the front end removed and will also give me time to modify the diff while im at it.

since i am looking at getting well over 500Nm of toque and running 35's i cannot imagine everything lasting to well once asked to do some offroading

so heres what im planing on doing:
1.once i snap something on the rear end i will be doing the same as cal415 and do a dana 60 conversion which will then settle any issue with weakness
2.front diff in the rovers are not renowned for being strong so firstly i am going to do what isuzurover has done and strengthen the housing but then i am not sure what to do to make it internally strong so heres what i have in mind....

A.remove the whole diff and graft a gq front end in as i have one sitting around.

B.graft a 80series front end under as i also have one of them laying around.

C.keep the rover front housing as i can then have the advantage of bolted on swivels which i can then slot to accomodate lift etc etc but somehow put a gq or 80series centre into the housing.

obviously theres the ratios that need to be thought about but has anyone done any of these ideas? or recon it could be doable?or if anyone has any other ideas maybe?

if machining needs to be done which i asume will have to be i have 2 milling machines,3 lathes,surface grinder,filing machine,tig welder,stick welder but no mig welder do have access to one though so i hope everything can be done at home and i will post pics up of the process but im not sure about everything that needs to be done.

or just see how long it last without any mods

[isuzutoo-eh]

Do you have a spare Sals lying around? If so, whilst your front is out do you reckon you could have a look and see if a Sals would clear the Isuzu sump at the bumpstops? Realising the pumpkin will be offset to the wrong side etc...

[vogue]

I would sugest doing something that keeps a rover housing otherwise you will have two different stud patterns.
What about the toyota center in the rover diff with longfields etc?
RovingTracks Extreme Duty Land Rover Drivetrain Accessories

[33chinacars]

If going to use a Dana 60 in the rear. How about a Dana 44 for the front. Just a thought.

Gary

[rick130]

I would sugest doing something that keeps a rover housing otherwise you will have two different stud patterns.
What about the toyota center in the rover diff with longfields etc?
RovingTracks Extreme Duty Land Rover Drivetrain Accessories

A reverse cut Toy diff is weak as water in reverse.

Jac Mc have a conventional, low hypoid Hilux centre that bolts in, or;

From what's been written lately, I'd be using one of Ashcrofts new spiral bevel reverse cut CWP's with whatever centre you choose in a pegged housing and decent axles and CV's.

That way you can use stock LR bits for emergency, temporary repairs, if needed.

[c.h.i.e.f]

Thanks guys for the response to this...
I have heard good things and then terrible things about the Toyota components but I am not familiar with diff components really so excuse my lack of knowledge ...
Wonder if the gq centre would fit with if the diff pan was chopped and a pipe cap re-welded to protrude out further?
I wonder if the dana44 could work ?
I'm up for any suggestions really so maybe what Rick said may be a good option but where to source the parts etc etc as I am not up on where the best places are to buy these parts...

As for getting measurements I could do that as I also have a spare sals laying around but it's a drum brake one that's all ...

[goingbush]

another idea

get a pair of Landcruiser 60 series housings, they run the same big diff front and rear, unlike the 80 which uses the small front diff. Probably the most bulletproof toyota diffs, no axle & cv issues.

60 series track is about right , parts easy to get anywhere, and cheap,

Pretty easy job to clean off the spring perches and graft on all the defender suspension mounts etc.

Otherwise a GQ front & 80 Series Rear complete, both run the same stud pattern but not sure about the track

[clive22]

Hi,

I have done pretty much to a tee what Rick130 recommends to my V8 County.

My V8 is not putting out 500 NM of torque maybe 300 Nm tops, it's a 4.2 out of a Rangie LSE, but I run Maxi drive 30% reduction gears so probably in the same order. I had it in for 18 months and probably 20+ hard trips, no problems at all.

The parts you will need are:
CV's and CW&P Ashcroft. Reverse cut I ran mine for strength forward and I am careful in reverse.
The course cut 8/28 diff is not noisy, and after about 15K+ Km I have never noticed a difference with the stock diff or the slight difference with the rear.
These CW&P have a much larger tooth so are less sensitive to CW movement and the wheel is thicker than stock again helping with CW flex.

Axles and Locker the County are Jac Macnamara

Diff Pegging: Ashcroft supply modified centres, but really too heavy to freight in. I had mine done at Total Traction Drivelines in Moorabbin Melbourne.

The pegging I have is set up without the bronze bush per Ashcroft setup which neither myself or Matt at TTD like, it has to wear - requiring re-adjustment ie pull your diff every year or so - no thanks.

Mine is set up with two H.S. studs (Unbrako) about 0.5mm behind the crown wheel so they only engage when the CW flexes, keeping it on pinion. At all other times the pegging is inert in the diff. I reckon you could do it yourself, but you need to good at welding, pre-heat the diff and carefully mill the plates.

I'd reckon a Toyota conversion may work out a bit cheaper, and may be a bit stronger, but you can't rotate your swivels as I have done and you can't keep all your parts as spares.


I don't have any photos to post up unfortunately


Clive

[c.h.i.e.f]

mmmm theres so many options personally it would be easier to fit the whole gq front under the front but the only thing stopping me is the swivels and steering ect etc..
i did read awhile ago about a fella that was making an "indestructable" diff by mixing parts from 80series and gu diffs and then chromoly axles,cvs etc etc but cannot remember who it was or where i seen it

i would have liked a front sals but then again i would have more luck winning the lotto then finding one of those!

so basically the best option at this stage by the looks of it is simply upgrading the rover stuff to ashcroft gear and then fitting a e-locker im thinking

[Bearman]

If you can find one, this is the housing to use ( from an army RFSV Perentie 110). Better than a Salisbury makeup. Combine this with a Trutrac and heavier axles and AEU2322 CV'S and if you really want to spend a bit more an Ashcroft Cw & P. Indestructible!