Very cheap series front locker?

[pdd1098]

Just thinking.....as you do,

Series 2 or 3 , fit freewheeling hubs( very cheap 2nd hand), weld up the front diff.

Normal driving with free wheeling hubs unlocked you are in rear wheel drive, go for some serious off roading lock the FWH's and you have a cheap fully locked front end.
I've had an air locker in the front and the steering is ok on rocks or loose stuff.
So I can't see any major probs, apart from breaking drive line components which you would do with an air locker any way if you are too heavy on the gas.
Any one been daft enough to do this before?
Dave

[The ho har's]

Just thinking.....as you do,

Series 2 or 3 , fit freewheeling hubs( very cheap 2nd hand), weld up the front diff.

Normal driving with free wheeling hubs unlocked you are in rear wheel drive, go for some serious off roading lock the FWH's and you have a cheap fully locked front end.
I've had an air locker in the front and the steering is ok on rocks or loose stuff.
So I can't see any major probs, apart from breaking drive line components which you would do with an air locker any way if you are too heavy on the gas.
Any one been daft enough to do this before?
Dave

Yes, 'butters1960' did on his workshop, I'll let im tell the story

Mrs hh

[isuzurover]

I have seen it done before.

What you have missed is you cannot turn corners with a front locker engaged. So you need to lock ONE FWH (for 3wd), then lock the 2nd when you want a front locker.

Plus you will break things in no time...

[pdd1098]

I have seen it done before.

What you have missed is you cannot turn corners with a front locker engaged. So you need to lock ONE FWH (for 3wd), then lock the 2nd when you want a front locker.

Plus you will break things in no time...

As I said I ran a front arb locker in my rangie for years....It felt wierd/heavy on hard packed dirt etc but you still could steer.
Just a month ago tried climbing a steep shelf with a hard left turn just after it ...no locker no climb..locker on, up then steer hard left and more up and away, no dramas.
I relise that series bits will be more fragile, but I have learned the hard way over the years that my right foot is not always the answer to a failed ascent...ie back off and try a different angle After saying all that I hear what you are saying about locking one hub at a time.
Can't wait to here from Butters
Thanks
Dave

[pdd1098]

Do the above but then weld up the rear and fit FWH's to the rear....one rear locked for street use(1 wheel drive) then lock all FWH's for off roading.... fully locked series for less than $100

[isuzurover]

I would like to see you do all this driving with the front locked. Do you do all your offroading with your tyres on full road pressure? With the front ARB locked and the tyres on offroad pressures the steering is incredibly heavy on hard packed ground - even with PAS!!!

Do the above but then weld up the rear and fit FWH's to the rear....one rear locked for street use(1 wheel drive) then lock all FWH's for off roading.... fully locked series for less than $100

FWHs are very fragile - even in front application - they wouldn't last long. I know ssomeone with a 100" hybrid and a welded rear who removed one halfshaft for road use. However it was only a temporary measure until his MD lockers arrived.

[pdd1098]

I said it was a crazy idea!
I guess I'm not so serious..std tyre pressures and PAS!, I will try it in my(new to me) stage1 that will be a challenge, lots of arm twirling just to leave the driveway
It just sucks that us Rover people have to spend ten times the vehicle value to make it locked and tough

My plan is to make a weekend toy on the cheap. Series 3 single cab, high comp "style" tray 32's, paras or a coil conversion and be able to at least keep up with a std Hilux! without breaking stuff

A Mates std Lux on 33's(std fit rear LSD) can sit spinning 3 wheels all day until it finds enough traction to climb a loose gnarly hill, I know from bitter experience that Rovers can't handle that sort of abuse CV's/CWP's x2/halfshafts I've broken them all
What is the cheapest way to tough em up?
(could just fit complete hilux running gear)
Dave

[isuzutoo-eh]

Stage 1s are constant 4wd so you'll have to lock the centre diff to drive if you have free wheeling hubs.
Put a detroit locker and upgraded rear axles for the most bang for buck traction improvement, but spend time on 'tuning' your springs to suit your load or go to paras if you want more flex. Chances are your springs are too stiff...

[pdd1098]

Stage 1s are constant 4wd so you'll have to lock the centre diff to drive if you have free wheeling hubs.
Put a detroit locker and upgraded rear axles for the most bang for buck traction improvement, but spend time on 'tuning' your springs to suit your load or go to paras if you want more flex. Chances are your springs are too stiff...

My stage 1 is staying as it is with new Rocky mountain paras...I love them, It is the useful truck with a big roof and lots of seats.
I want to make a separate "toy" tray back just for fun.

Can you get a detroit for a sals rear? where is the cheapest source?

The previous owner of the Stage 1 put FWH's on??? I am replacing them with stock flanges....hence I have a spare set of FWH's which could go on the fun truck.
Thanks
Dave

[isuzutoo-eh]

Lucky 8 have them listed, I don't know if they are the cheapest source though:
Lucky8llc.com - Detroit Products for Land Rovers
Ashcroft Transmissions also list them:
http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co...&productId=308

I don't know if they will suit a Series Sals or not out of the box. There is a bloke near me selling a holdenised S3 109 hard top with a detroit in the back, so it is possible.

Does your Stage 1 have an LT95 as it should?