TD5 immobilised twice???? Help & thoughts please.

[Yorkshire_Jon]

Hi all,
Need a few ideas please.

On two random occasions I've been driving the 110, stopped for 5 minutes and then she wouldn't turn over & start.

On both occasions it was driving with no hint of issue prior to stopping. When I stopped I got and out and locked it with the keyfob (as always).

5 mins later returned to car, unlocked with same keyfob, everything appears ok and the locks pop up with the same noise as always.

I jump in the car and turn the key... NOTHING



Now, on the first occasion I pulled the ecu cables and re-seated, checked the battery terminals, re-locked and unlocked a few times. All made no difference. Then I thought I'd link the two batteries together via my battery controller and hey presto it started. At this point I thought I had a dead starter battery.

Yesterday, exactly the same thing happened, but I didn't bother with moving cables, I went straight to the battery link option. IT DIDN'T WORK! Then, mindful of another recent post I poked the inertia / roll-over switch on the firewall. Then turned they key and voila, she fired up.

I'm wondering if it's time related rather than anything specific I am doing, or if I have a duff inertia switch.

I'm going to read the fault log a little later but doubt there will be anything there.

Any thoughts?

Thx
Jon

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[justinc]

Hi Jon,

My last experience with this has resulted in a lock switch failure some months later. The electrical switch I think was beginning to fail, causing volt drop was my guess. Short answer the replacement of the lock barrel and switch has stopped this happening since according to the owner.

JC

[Yorkshire_Jon]

Hi Jon,

My last experience with this has resulted in a lock switch failure some months later. The electrical switch I think was beginning to fail, causing volt drop was my guess. Short answer the replacement of the lock barrel and switch has stopped this happening since according to the owner.

JC

Thanks JC,
Not quite sure what you mean!

Do you mean the ignition barrel assembly or drivers door lock? Where is the switch in the door?

I cant recall anything electrical in the door apart from the central locking and leccy windows.

Must admit though, I haven't been inside the TD5 door.

J

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[Dan]

This might not be your preferred solution but it's food for thought if your intermittent problem persists. I experienced a serious problem in January when my immobiliser shut down my Landy's ECU on a remote part of the coastline. It was my fault, not the car's (see separate posts) but it taught me one thing: I never wanted any problems ever again with my immobiliser while travelling in the outback, miles from help. So my immobiliser has been deactivated. Nothing can trigger it to shut down my car now.

[whynot]

I have had a similar problem.
1. apparanlty the imobilizer is located behind (from memory) the Front L/H Headlight. It was a short in a wire, rubbing through onto the guard.
2. the other problem I had was with a relay for the ECU.

Hope thid helps...

Cheers Andrew

[Yorkshire_Jon]

I have had a similar problem.
1. apparanlty the imobilizer is located behind (from memory) the Front L/H Headlight. It was a short in a wire, rubbing through onto the guard.
2. the other problem I had was with a relay for the ECU.

Hope thid helps...

Cheers Andrew

Incorrect. 10AS unit is behind steering wheel in dash.

I have heard of relays failing though.

Thx
J

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[Yorkshire_Jon]

Well I'm pretty sure I've Identified the problem!

It wouldn't start twice today. One time I was on a bit of a slope, so I thought I'd try and bump start it... It worked a great.

Second time (after intentionally parking on a slope), bumped it off again with no problems.

So I reckon I simply need a solenoid starter repair kit.

Ironically, we all presumed the electronics would be the problem. This would have happened to the most basic of non-electronic engines😏

R
Jon

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[Yorkshire_Jon]

I ordered a new solenoid repair kit off eBay the other day and pulled the starter off today to tackle the repair.

For some reason my bolts and bolt were all bigger than the other repair reports I've read, but that top bolt is just as big a PITA as everyone says

Once off the car and on the bench the plunger and contacts where quite heavily pitted and generally black.

Replaced the pitted & black bits with the new ones put all back together and so far so good. It's started about 5-6 times since with no problems.

One more thing to cross off the 'to do list'!

J

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[justinc]

hi jon, yes sorry i made an error with my post, i had it in my head you had a puma...

i should've read the title more carefully then i would've listed solenoid contacts as a possible cause too....


glad its now ok, and yes the top nut is a bit of a problem

jc