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Thread: Fuel tank bolts

  1. #1
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    Fuel tank bolts

    The fuel tank bolts are rusted solid, and access to the nuts is quite difficult. I'm looking to grind the top off the bolts but as you can imagine I’m concerned about being so close to fuel and a fuel tank!!

    I've searched the forum and can't find a definitive answer (or I’m terrible at searching one or the other!! )

    My thoughts are to rinse the tank out a few times with water and then fill with water while I’m grinding. Is this going to reduce the risk explosion?

    Thanks for your help!!
    1960 SWB Series 2 UTE
    1963 LWB Series 2a UTE

  2. #2
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    This should make it safe, but consider that cold chisels were invented before angle grinders - I would think (without looking at the problem) that this may be a simpler solution. Chisel needs to be good quality and sharp, use eye protection.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  3. #3
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    What about trying two big breaker-bars with good quality sockets and two people, and shear the bolts?

    If it will fit, a hydraulic nut splitter would work as well,

    Cheers Charlie

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    Times like this prove the Ingersoll-Rand rattle gun I bought 20 years ago was not a luxury!

    Seriously, while I have set fire to an open tray of solvent and dry grass (while fencing) with angle grinder sparks, it's unlikely you will ignite atmospheric petrol vapours with a spark. The internal combustion engine has to compress the vapour before a spark will ingnite the fuel. A motor well down on compression will not fire. This does NOT apply to LPG or hydrogen from batteries on charge!
    I had to grind one of my mounts off. I chose a well ventilated situation, drained the tank, plugged the filler & breather & covered the tank with a damp towel & I've still got my eyebrows and don't look like the late Colonel Gaddafi.

  5. #5
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    Hey thanks for the help!!

    I'm removing the rear tray (LWB UTE) and will be removing the tanks too. I was looking to remove the tank to gain access to the tray bolts. Access is difficult, teamed up with 50 years of rust!!

    Where I can't access / grip / remove nuts and bolts i have been grinding (some times the nut will snap while trying to undo!!)

    chazza - access / condition of the nut is proving difficult otherwise I agree that a breaker bar or two would work!!

    JDNSW - I like the cold chiesel idea, I have had some success with a cold chiesel. I find that if you center punch and predrill the head of the bolt then a cold chiesel works well (or use it on the nut - which I can't get too!)

    I think I will stick to the plan and drain and fill the tank to the brim with water, the tank has to come out anyway as do the fuel lines... so really it's work i'm going to do anyway!

    I'll let you know how I go!

    Thanks again!!
    1960 SWB Series 2 UTE
    1963 LWB Series 2a UTE

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by tibbsy View Post
    I find that if you center punch and predrill the head of the bolt then a cold chiesel works well (or use it on the nut - which I can't get too!)
    That reminds me of a method I have used - drill the head of the bolt off; or drill into the side of the nut, support the far side with a heavy dolly and split the nut with a cold chisel and hammer. Option two requires two people though

    The advantage of the drill is no sparks of course, and usually good access.

    Good luck!

    Cheers Charlie

  7. #7
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    I managed to get the tub off so access to the nuts will not be an issue!!
    1960 SWB Series 2 UTE
    1963 LWB Series 2a UTE

  8. #8
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    die grinders are great....

    with quality bits there are usually no sparks as you are cutting the metal away not grinding.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  9. #9
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    Where do you get quality die grinder bits - I must looking in the wrong place. All I seem to see is those cheap kits with various random shapes.

  10. #10
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    bolt master
    blackwoods
    most mechanical trade type shops

    as a tip, if the retail on one bit is much less than $40ish for a small 6mm bit (or 1/4 inch) its not quality...

    This is my goto bit for most of the stuff you'll do on a landy.

    This I use on finer fiddly bits or where access is a bit tighter

    This kit will do all the steel stuff you need for most things,

    The first one, but this is an ally cutter

    The second one but for ally



    The steel cutting version of that one is what you really want for taking out siezed nuts and bolts... good luck finding one.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

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