Choosing a Defender ?

[DeanoH]

I am thinking of buying a Defender but need some information to help me refine my Defender model search criteria.
I have a window of opportunity here, SWMBO's off OS for 5 weeks and now is the time to strike, err..............i'll have more non interupted time to consider the options . (paulk if you read this, not a word.)

Seriously though, I've owned Series II & III , RRC and P38a and we've SWMBO's D2a. The kids have inherited the RRC and I've the OKA but my knees are detiorating and it's increasingly difficult to 'climb' into the OKA so i am thinking about 'downsizing' to something more easily accessable.

What I'm thinking about is a 130, but as I'm of an 'older' generation I havn't totally taken on board the 'benefits' of 'electronickery'. In short I'm an old fart who would rather have an old technology diesel and though I enjoyed my P38a I'm not blind to its weak points, diffs included. Did LR make a 130 dual cab 300 TDi with salisbury type diffs in a 5 speed manual ? or am I going to have to make compromises or build a vehicle. I/we travel extensively off road in remote areas and reliability/strength is very important.
Without re-igniting a 200/300 TDi vs TD5 vs Puma engine bonfire I am concerned though regarding the various 300TDi head failure posts. Has this engine reached its used by date ? Is the gearbox as weak as some would suggest ? What needs to be done to achieve strong axles ?
These are all things I need to know before taking the plunge and would appreciate some non 'rose coloured glasses' information.

Thanks Deano

[tonic]

My mates 130 and my 110 both 98 have both had heads at around 225k. Talking to Alli Sport in the UK, they suggest that the radiator is at minimum capacity to cool the engine in our temps. On top of that, I have read in here that the temp gauge is unreliable and everyone seems to recommend a digital temp gauge. During my refurbishment I intend to put in a bigger capacity radiator from Alli Sport or similar and a digital temp gauge. Would go maxi drive from MR for diff axle. Having taken 2 years to buy one, expect to spend a bit to do it up to new standards.

[Summiitt]

My 3 work utes are all defenders, and all are loaded to the max and driven hard including off road forestry work, they are a 97 110 cab chassis (460,000km),a 2003 130 cab chassis td5(160,000km) and a 2011 130 cab chassis(68,000km) all have been very reliable, but I am really impressed with the old tdi 110, in that time I've done 2 clutches, 1 injector pump, put maxi drive shafts/flanges in the diffs and a few oil seals here and there, but it has never ever failed to start or not got me or one of my guys home, as for gearboxes, never had a drama, and we do a lot of towing..hope this info helps.

[PAT303]

I've got both a Tdi and TDCi and I'm the worlds biggest Tdi fan but the TDCi is better in every way,my next defender will be a 130 TDCi.Forget the electric's and the doomsday talk,I've had two common rail electric vehicles and I live in the outback and niether have given me a hint of trouble,too many people talk crap based on rumour,opinion or hersay, not on experience or knowledge. Pat

[Allan]

We've got both TD5 and Puma, but for me and S.H.M.B.O. the Puma is the best.The Puma is just that little bit better, better performance, better air, better heating, better ride, better T.C. etc.etc. Allan

[camel_landy]

Did LR make a 130 dual cab 300 TDi with salisbury type diffs in a 5 speed manual?

Yes.

Without re-igniting a 200/300 TDi vs TD5 vs Puma engine bonfire I am concerned though regarding the various 300TDi head failure posts. Has this engine reached its used by date ? Is the gearbox as weak as some would suggest ? What needs to be done to achieve strong axles ?

Don't be concerned, on the internet you will only hear problems, never the nice stuff. The 300TDi is pretty much bomb proof and the R380 is a strong box.

Usual things apply, look after it & it'll be fine. The only thing to make sure is that the gearbox is using the correct oil as the original spec (which LR later changed) for ATF it too thin.

The main thing that causes failures of the gearbox/axles is driving it like a knob, revving & dropping the clutch, etc... This snatches the drive train & can cause the premature failures.

Drive sympathetically and you shouldn't have problems. However, if you're still paranoid, a set of Maxi rear axles is more than you'll ever need.

HTH

M

[ugu80]

My 2c. Once the maxidrive gear is fitted to the rear, consider a detroit (locker or LSD) or such for the rear. I have a 300tdi and the detroit transforms its offroad ability, and I don't mean tearing up tracks with balloon tyres sort of thing, it allows you to do just about anything you used to do at a far gentler pace (less stress on the drive train, less stress on tracks). The latest detroits are almost unnoticable in operation, all the noise and banging and tales of old have been engineered out.

[DeanoH]

Thank you all for the information, so far so good. A bit of explanatory info and some more questions (sorry) .

Regarding my preference for a 300TDi over a more 'modern' engine, the problem is more me than Land Rover. I just sleep easier when I'm somewhere remote knowing that the vehicle is a 'non-electronic' one. Probably quite irrational considering we've had SWMBO's Td5 Disco all over the place and the only electronic failures have been the bloody auto inhibitor switch (5 times), which wouldn't be a problem with a manual anyway. Though its never stranded us off road. One of the reasons I bought the OKA was because of its lack of electronics and the feeling of 'simplistic reliability' it gives.
I would probably go with the maxi drive option and assume something like Dana Spicer Power Lok LSD's would be available ? I have these both ends in the OKA and find them to be smooth and seamless in operation. I fully agree with ugu80 here, a lot less stress on the vehicle, track and driver. Definitely set and forget, though with the lighter 130 I would probably not have one in the front for fear of 'steering on' problems. Comments ?

Looking through 'carsales' there are no 130's for sale from 2000-2008. Is this just coincidence or weren't they imported during this period ?

All Defenders listed (92-99) show as 5 speed, is this right, I'm sure I've seen 4 speed models advertised before ?

Are there any important improvements in the 300 TDi that may not be noticable to a 'Defender newby' ? ie. is one model year better/worse than another ?

Thanks again Deano

[PAT303]

The trouble with going to a Tdi is it's age,it might be easier to fix than a TDCi but a 15 year old vehicle is going to have more problems than a new one regardless of the non electrics simply because it's 15 years old.I had that problem with mine,spend some coin on it to bring it up to standard or buy a TDCi,it won't matter how much you pay it's still an old vehicle so I bought new. Pat

[bcj]

u'r tdi's are all 5 speed, later 300tdi's r380 box had output gear upgrade to reduce wear on mainshaft
Rural fire here in Nsw are selling of 130's occasionally with low k"s if u'r lucky to find one, gotta watch auctions

Brett

110 300tdi