Traction Control

[Flaps]

I went out 4bing on the weekend for the first time this year and what seem let me down was traction control or lack of it. i had the back left tire off the ground and only got wheel spin from the front right and back left isn't traction control meant to come in and brake the spinning wheel.

Can u adjust the traction control so it brakes harder or do i need to fork out more cash and buy some better brakes.

[miky]

I went out 4bing on the weekend for the first time this year and what seem let me down was traction control or lack of it. i had the back left tire off the ground and only got wheel spin from the front right and back left isn't traction control meant to come in and brake the spinning wheel.

Can u adjust the traction control so it brakes harder or do i need to fork out more cash and buy some better brakes.

The traction control should use the abs system to brake a wheel if it lifts off like your back left.
Mine works perfectly (2010 Puma waggon), awesome.

What vehicle do you have - year and model.

Mike

[trumby]

Had a defender 2001 td5 use to go on the sand a fair bit with mt bf goodys' would get stuck all the time. So one day, I pulled out fuse number 17 or 7 can't remember, never got stuck for the next 5 years burn your traction control only good on gravel I say!

[Flaps]

i got a 2004 td5 defender. Man i got out done by my brothers jeep on the weekend cause it wasn't working. Man i feel like an idiot. Im sure it can do better.

[scarry]

Centre diff lock was in?

[MR LR]

With the centre diff lock in you won't need it in sand, unless you are cocking opposite wheels all the time, even still it should brake the ones with no traction and send power to the ones with it.

[Flaps]

yea i was out in the mud i always use the center diff lock if it looks slippery. Do u know if u can turn the traction control up so that it brakes harder.

[goingbush]

The Td5 Traction control only works across one axle - YOU MUST have the Center diff lock engaged.

On a Puma it works across both axles together,

But in either car I think you are nuts if you don't engage the CDL,
Both for the longevity of the driveline & to stop you making the LandRover look bad in front of your Toyata mates.

You guys have no idea how much stress the Traction control, puts on your diff side gears & all that chattering is wearing out all the splines. No wonder Puma diffs are not lasting.

Below is a bit off topic but the guys opinion of the effect of Traction Control on a Rover diff should be noted. (I upgraded my Defender open diffs to Eaton (Detroit) TrueTracs )

This Quote is from an email I got from CEO, Great Basin Rovers, Utah

In my opinion, upgraded axle shafts/CV joints are strictly optional when running Truetracs. First Land Rover axles and CV joints are not as bad as many people think. Second, since a TT is a limited slip they do not stress out axle shafts nearly as much as fully locking differentials and they bias torque in a very smooth and controlled manner unlike a hard ratcheting type of system. CV joints don't like shock loads so if you are a finesse driver and run TT's you won't have much problem with them. Another advantage of TT's especially in 2 pinion Rover diffs is they are massively more durable. The lifespan of a Rover diff with traction control engaged is between 30 minutes and 1 hour! The pulsing literally starts to dissolve the two spider gears. If you have used traction control a lot and want to do a quick check on the condition of your diff is to drain the gear oil and pay attention to the color when it first comes out. If it is silver as I describe it, this is your spider gears returning to their elemental state!

So guys, engage your CDL, its a basic off road driving skill !!

[Flaps]

Man that's good to know might have to get me some truetracs just had a look on the net not that expensive. That might have to be the next upgrade.

[OffTrack]

I know it's a bizarre concept, but have you tried driving the conditions using the technique LR recommend in the Owners Manual for slippery surfaces?

CDL locked, select as high a gear as possible, and use minimum throttle possible.

The idea is to keep power sent to the wheels below the level that will break traction so you maintain forward drive. LR seem to develop the driver aids like traction control as an enhancement of the techniques they recommend so in theory at least you'll get the best results driving in the LR style.

Tom Sheppards "The Land Rover Experience (2nd Ed)" (link to listings on ABE Books) from 1994 gives excellent coverage of the rationale behind the driving techniques recommended in the Owner Manual, including some great material on the horizontal and vertical strength of surfaces.