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Thread: broken manifold

  1. #1
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    broken manifold

    yes i have broken a 101 right hand exhaust manifold at the exhaust pipe end between the studs don't known if welding will hold has anyone got a spare



    mrs HH to post photos

    Harry
    Series Landy Rescue

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    '51 80", Discovery 2, Defender 130, 101 FC + 20 other Land Rover vehicles

  2. #2
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    poo bum !!!

    i have seen some wonderful welded repairs to cast exhaust manifolds, but always suspect them.
    can it take a manifold from a 3.5 or 3.9 disco?
    i suppose the heads are pretty similar.
    Safe Travels
    harry

  3. #3
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    I thought the headers were the same as the 3.5 and it was the y pipes that changed....

    if they are I think I have a set on an old motor that Im being indecisive about what Im doing with it.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

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  4. #4
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    dave, maybe type in the p/n in the big aus mil computer,
    they might still hold stock!
    Safe Travels
    harry

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by The ho har's View Post
    yes i have broken a 101 right hand exhaust manifold at the exhaust pipe end between the studs don't known if welding will hold has anyone got a spare



    mrs HH to post photos

    Harry

    My old neighbour was a whizz at this sort of thing, he used to heat the manifold and weld it with stainless steel rods on a stick welder. He was a true old time self taught engineer....

  6. #6
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    I gave Iain Reed a pair of repaired 101 manifolds when he bought the engine, he may part with one. But a better option may be to find a pair of manifolds off a P38 which breathe better than the original 101 manifolds.

    Pretty much work like extractors in the limited space of the 101s engine bay.

    You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.

  7. #7
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    the manifold is one off due too chassis rail being so close as i understand

    harry
    Series Landy Rescue

    Parts, welding, finger folding, Storage, Painting, Fabrication, Restorations,
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    '51 80", Discovery 2, Defender 130, 101 FC + 20 other Land Rover vehicles

  8. #8
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    RHS manifold is extremely hard to find.......I dont think you will find one.
    Think of it being made of glass too........extremely brittle.
    LHS is advailible and is the one that usually cracks.
    On the LHS you have little option other than a 101 manifold.
    On the RHS some other manifolds will fit , but the out let will be pointing downwards towards the front diff and not towards the rear.
    A rover P38 RHS will fit with extensive rework of the exhaust system and a harder to get MG 3.5 V8 manifold.
    Fitting another manifold type will cause problems with the wiring and control cables running along the RHS of the chassis and motor.
    Repair may be the simplest option and would be best done with brazing or cast iron filler and TIG welding with preheating and post heating treatment.
    Breakage of the RHS manifold is normally caused by some one swinging on the back of the manifold trying to undo the exhaust flange bolts or a poorly secured or in flexable exhaust system.
    Ron

  9. #9
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    Hi Harry,

    Definite bummer about the exhaust. This would be my first port of call and the best chance in OZ - Anthony Johnson, British 4WD Imports Pty Ltd, (03) 9728 8046. Email: british4wd@bigpond.com

    I recently saw pictures of a set of hand made headers for the 101, they looked the goods. Pics must have been on the 101club forum. Had a quick look but cannot find them but will keep looking.
    I like the sound of Rons repair suggestion as the quickest fix.
    Peter

  10. #10
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    Cast iron welding is not difficult, if as Ron says the part is pre-heated and post-heated.

    I put the parts in a charcoal brazier with all the pre-welding prep already done and the parts tacked together. Just before the cast iron gets to dull red heat, whip it out of the fire onto the welding table and complete the weld. Weldall rods from BOC work well. Immediately after the weld is completed, return it to the heat, cover it with coals and allow it to cool slowly.

    For extended welding times it will be necessary to return it to the heat more than once, before the welding can be finished,

    Cheers Charlie

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