Starter problems.

[PeterH]

I tried to start my 2001 HSE 4.6 yesterday, there was a clunk like the solenoid was engaging, but it would not turn over.
After several attempts it did start normally, but fearing a dying alternator or battery I drove straight to my auto electrician.
They were kind enough to come straight out and check the battery/ alternator which are both fine, and suspected the starter motor.
Same problems again today, engaging but not turning, but will start after several attempts.
My question is, how hard is it to remove the starter on a P38?
I got under and had a look, I can see the bottom allen key bolt, I'm guessing there is another one hidden on top.
Any tips to help removal of the starter would be most appreciated.
Thanks.

[mechanic2you]

PeterH

You are correct in assuming the position of the top bolt which turns out to be the problem child so to speak
Access to the top bolt consists of a long extension bar in half inch drive that extends past the engine mount and the biggest breaker bar you can fit in there, they are always extremely tight but with the right amount of elbow grease you will be the victor.
Regards
Peter

[PeterH]

Thanks Peter. I seem to recall reading something about removing the drivers front wheel and the plastic inner guard to improve access.

[p38driver]

Peter look here , p38 starter motor replacement

[PeterH]

Thanks P38 driver, I did try to search for posts on starters, I never seem to have any luck with searches on this forum, I always get a lot of irrelevant results for some reason.

[PeterH]

Starter done!
I decided to get a new OEM one from my supplier and got under the car today.
It was fairly straight forward to do, although that top bolt was a bit tricky.
I did not need to remove the road wheel or inner guard lining to get the job done.
It is held on with two 8mm hex (allen key) bolts.
The bottom one is much easier to get at, if you do this job, start with the bottom bolt first.
I could not undo the electical connections in situ, so I started with the two mounting bolts.
I used a 4" extension on my 1/2 inch drive socket ratchet, which is just long enough to get past the length of the starter motor.
The top bolt is the harderst part, you can get the 4" extension over the top of the starter, the top bolt is directly above the gap between the solenoid and the starter body.
I found I could slide my left hand in between the inner plastic lining and over the chassis, to gain partial acces to the top bolt to help guide the hex key into place.
Once you have the hex key engaged with the bolt, it does take a bit of force to get it started, but it will undo if you get the right angle of force.
Once the bolts were out, I could lowwer the starter out and disconnect the electical connections. (Of course the battery was disconnected prior to starting work).
The new starter had the main big positive pole, and two smaller clip on electrical connections, however my original starter had only one small connector.
Once I had the new starter in, I could not get it to work.
I found swapping the small connector to the top connector on the new starter solved the problem, now it works a treat!
It's a bit of a greasy job under there, be prepared for a lot of arm/hand cleaning afterwards.
You could probably do it in an hour all going well.
Hope this helps someone.
Cheers, PeterH.

[BusinessConnected]

What a nightmare...

I've finished mine today.. The Top Bolt was well and truly stuck... I also had a nice buildup of grease which prevented me getting good "purchase" inside the Hex Socket of the Bolt.

In any event some degreaser and a Larger 1/2 Ratchet got me going....
I ended up using the "Rave" Method with a couple of Extensions towards the Oil Filter. I have a Z9 Oil Filter fitted at the moment which made the job a bit harder (Less Clearance as it's longer)...

However it's done... took me about 2-2.5 hours all up, but I'll be able to do the Starter in the other P38 (when required) in about an hour or so next time...

My Car had Heat Shields etc fitted and I did it all without removing wheels/wheel guards etc as well...

[PeterH]

Glad you got it out, it's certainly not the most comfortable or clean job you can do on a Rangie! The only way I could get it with the shorter extension was to squeeze my hand up through the gap between the plastic inner guard and the chassis.
After all my efforts, the new starter stopped working.
It appears the gear that engages with the flywheel has come off the starter.
I'm hoping it's not a crack or teeth missing on the flywheel.

[p38fan]

had the same problem when I first bought my rangy. Changed the starter and found teeth missing on the flywheel. I was shattered. Got over it and got to work taking out the gearbox.
Just a small piece of advice, don't even think about this without very tall jack stands and a gearbox mount attachment for your trolley jack. Also you will need at least 4 6" extensions for your half inch driver to access the 4 bolts at the top of the Bell housing through the gear shifter hole. Also a dentist's mirror.
Save up all your patients for this Job.
Also you will need some mates to help lift what has to be the biggest, heaviest gearbox in history.
Ow yeah talk wrench a must.

[p38fan]

That last line was supposed to say torque wrench is a must.