Basically the engine is already run in - so drive it "normally" or as a normal person would do.
Garry
Done the search, no luck.
Do we need to run in the D4 from new?
Getting mixed responses, some say new cars are already run in, others say first 10,000ks are critical for life of engine, fuel economy etc. a mate of mine who is a diesel mechanic says you should run then in, by making them "pull" so using low down torque rather than revs/power for the first couple of thousand.
If so what s the best running in method? Drive it like you stole it? Drive it like my nan?
Thoughts....
Basically the engine is already run in - so drive it "normally" or as a normal person would do.
Garry
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
Ditto.
City driving is probably the best way to run in an engine and driveline as it forces you to go up and down the rev range without getting things too hot (initially).
Constant speeds/constant revs is the second worst way to do it, (eg. freeway driving) and by far the worst way is the old fashioned pussy footing around with minimal revs/load.
Does this mean I shouldn't head down south on the freeway to a mate and fellow Landie buff straight off the forecourt at Southern Landrover on 20 November?

Just don't sit on a constant 110km/h, go up and down in speed a bit and, while no one bothers, crown wheels and pinions really do need running in and like a few cool off periods in the first few hours of operation.
New race car diffs are always run in needing quite a few cool off periods, and drivers hate doing it.
Thanks Rick
It's only about 100k South of Perth so I'll vary the speed and it will only be an hour before it gets a rest.
Varying the speed will not be a problem because it'll be peak hour coming out of Perth and some WA drivers love to sit in the middle lane and block traffic for a while before the cars behnind them can undertake.
Get it properly warm and go for a drive through the hills with the whole family on board. That way you vary the revs and there is always a load on it. Do not be scared to give it a bit of welly as well.
This way the rings are being loaded up and bedding in which will determine your future oil consumption. If you pussy foot around the bore will glaze and later there will be oil consumption problems.
To sum up; all it takes is sensible driving and making a warm engine work within its design parameters, meanwhile for the driver you will have a very silly grin with the sheer pleasure this will be giving you.
2012 Fuji White 3.0 D4, Rear view camera, Hi-line sound, E-diff, Xenon lights, ARB winch bar, Lightforce 240 50w HID. Brads sliders.
Hey Jaybee75,
All good advice. My father in law is a diesel engineer & mechanic.
His advice to me is.... Letting it labour won't hurt it, vary your speed & don't over rev it.
Pretty much what everyone has mentioned.
Most of all..... Enjoy.
Cheers, Craig
 Master
					
					
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						You should always give it a good lead foot once in a while. Soot build up in your egr valves can cause them to stick open and cause bad problems. Plus it clears all the soot out of your exhaust system and just gives everything a good wake up.
It's also fun.
Just as a matter of interest what sort of de-sooting regime are you talking about and for how long? Would smoking it up at the lights on the odd occasion you're along side a Prado be enough or are you talking as 10+ kilometers of sustained fang once a month?
Perhaps D4/RRS owners in each State can meet regularly for some desooting drags late at night somewhere in the country.
It's a pity when various things go wrong the car goes into limp mode yet when the EGR starts to get blocked it you don't get a message like "EGR valves Error. Commence Rocket Mode in 4 seconds. Please hang on."
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