Remove dash or shortcut method?

[PeterH]

I am going to tackle my leaky heater core tomorrow, also replace the passenger side blend motor.
Trouble is I really can't decide which way to go about it...remove the dash or use the short cut method?
If it was one or the other, I would probably just do the short cut, but having to to both is making me lean towards the dash removal method.
Any thoughts?
Which way did you do yours?
Cheers, Pete.

[Hoges]

If I had to do the heater core I'd remove the dash There's a P38 heater core mod referenced in rangerovers.net wherein they use a heater core from an Audi (obviously they're a lot cheaper in the USA! ) usually obtained from a wrecker. The only hiccup is that you need a couple of adaptors because the inlet/outlet spigots on the Audi core are a different size from those on the P38...both cores are manufactured by Valeo.

[PeterH]

Thanks Hoges, yes I've read about the Audi conversion, but I'll stick with the original LR one for the time.
If it goes again I might consider the alternative.
I am leaning towards the dash removal, but it does look like a lot of work!
Oh well, I have 2 days to tackle it, should be plenty of time.

[Keithy P38]

Famous last words!

[glenhendry]

Even if dash removal is slightly longer, I suspect it is much more pleasant and less stressful work than hunting around those vents!

[PeterH]

You are probably right Keithy, I'll still still be on it next week!
glenhendry, that was my main concern too, pretty tight under there with the dash still in place, looks like a much easier job once the dash is out.

[p38arover]

I did my heater core a couple of years back. I had a replacement dash top and new blend motors to fit so I did those at the same time.

Something like this Dash Removal and Replacement (Range Rover 4.0/4.6/p38)

Be aware that the dashtop is glued to the dash lower section and that may come apart when you remove it. See pic 4 on that page.

Annoyingly, one of those new blend motors has since failed.

I found the locating ears on the side vents had broken and the retaining clips would no longer retain.



So I silver-soldered a stub of steel rod onto a washer and glued it to the vent using a polyurethane glue.



The clip locates like this. Note I used some sealing foam strip I got from Bunnings on the end of the vent. I did the rest of the duct connections at the same time.





I hope you don't have the problem I had. I got it all back together and had a leak so I had to dismantle it all again. The new heater core came from LR with a puncture hole in it!



Check the AC drains where they go through the floor while you are there (one each side):

[PeterH]

Thanks for the great post and photos Ron, very helpful.
One of the things I was concerned about was causing more damage removing the dash than doing the shortcut method.
11 year old plastic parts will have to be getting a bit fragile, I know that from working on my '89 Rangie.
When you say you replaced the dash top, do you mean the entire top dash as a unit? Or are you talking about the dash top plastic surface?
Thanks, Pete.

[p38arover]

Thanks for the great post and photos Ron, very helpful.
One of the things I was concerned about was causing more damage removing the dash than doing the shortcut method.
11 year old plastic parts will have to be getting a bit fragile, I know that from working on my '89 Rangie.
When you say you replaced the dash top, do you mean the entire top dash as a unit? Or are you talking about the dash top plastic surface?
Thanks, Pete.

You're right about fragility!

The whole dashtop as a unit was replaced. I picked up a new one of -eBay from a dealer in Melbourne.

This duct unit separated from the dashtop which you can see is cracked (third pic). The adhesive no longer held them together.






This is the underside of the dash you see on top. Note the centre vents and the driver's binnacle cover the the right.



When you do the O-rings. make sure you clean every bit of crud off the heater pipes or they will leak. Ask me how I know. Also, before disconnecting them, mark them "top" and "bottom". I know one chap who got them back to front (not me) and they leaked because they weren't correctly aligned.



On reassembly, DO NOT overtighten the clamp screw or you may crack the heater core. But I told you that once before:

Heater O-ring replacement in progress.

[PeterH]

Wow, I'm surprised to see it came apart like that, and I can see your need for a replacement dash.
I guess enough summers and winters are going eventually have an effect on those parts.
I did do the o rings last time as you mentioned, which sealed perfectly, unfortunately the heater core has since decided to start weeping on the side, which is why I have to go back in there.
The joys of P38 ownership!
Thanks again for all the great photos Ron.