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Thread: Here is a trap, Puma fuel system problems!

  1. #1
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    Here is a trap, Puma fuel system problems!

    Righto, this finally caused a monumental problem today.

    Fuel filter draining. Due to the lack of a seperate sedimenter in the system, the fuel filter doubles as a water trap and a filter. Great idea, works ok until it gets a big gutload of water.... anyway today during routine servicing I unscrewed the drain to check for water on a 2011 90. Got about 5 to 10 mls, all pretty much what I expected to see. Tightened drain plug and finished service, test run for a few minutes while checking lights etc and moved it to the other side of the workshop to finish off signing book, service sticker, wiper blades etc.

    several hours later, went to move the vehicle and wouldn't start. Cranked and cranked. Noticed Immobiliser lamp on dash and hazards not operating when locking and unlocking. Hard reset and that was then OK. BUT, still no start. After hooking up diagnostics, revealed valid imobiliser code sent etc so that wasn't a problem this time.

    Went off to do another job while having a think, then checked the fuel line to the HP pump, empty. Hmmm, well the quickest way to bleed is pressurise the tank, so compressed air in the filler with a rag around it and soon had fuel spilling out all over the floor FROM THE FUEL FILTER DRAIN PLUG INSERT.

    These fantastically designed fuel filters (A genuine LR one) have a crimped plastic threaded insert that the drain screws into, this one had rotated slightly and broken its seal. This caused a siphoning of all the fuel from the HP pump back to the tank, and prevented more from being drawn up, due to an ingress of air.

    New filter fitted, pressurised tank and its all go again.

    I lost a few years off my life expectancy though

    In future, I may just be replacing these filters on a yearly basis...regardless. What happens if this happened out in the boonies??? Be evry careful how you unscrew that drain, and alway carry a spare filter.

    I have had the drain cocks physically break inside the filter while unscrewing in the past, and obviously they get tossed out, but this one actually did up fine, and felt good but was a complete failure as any air in a diesel system ESPECIALLY as there is no intank pump in the Puma, is a proper disaster.

    JC

  2. #2
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    So nothing has really changed from the 300TDi days where the drain used to snap off in the sedimenter there too...

    M

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by camel_landy View Post
    So nothing has really changed from the 300TDi days where the drain used to snap off in the sedimenter there too...

    M
    mmmm, yes but at least you could then screw in a bolt and oring to get you home, these filters become a dead loss when this happens
    Showstopper springs to mind....It certainly was today, I can tell you

    JC

  4. #4
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    Really?,mines original after 14 years,a bit of grease on the thread and don't overtighten and your good to go,a replacement in the glove box if worst comes to worst.People have no one but themselves to blame if they get stuck,everyone should have a spare filter and fan belt in their vehicle. Pat

  5. #5
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    The sediment bowl on the Tdi Pat as you know is best removed and cleaned as a unit, firstly to ensure they get a good clean out and secondly to avoid the broken bit. I will however say that if you have been doing this (unscrewing it and then using grease on reassembly) to your vehicle at servicing from day 1 it is no doubt it will last. I get to work on some pretty neglected and hardly serviced examples and it is these that give trouble mostly...

    I have taken to just removing the sedimenter entirely and washing / inspecting it at service times on all vehicles.

    JC

  6. #6
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    how often do you guys do the sediment bowl on a 300tdi? Fuel filter?

  7. #7
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    sedimenter remove and clean every 10 k service interval, or immediate on new customer / unknown history vehicle at first contact service.
    fuel filter immediately if sedimenter filthy/ full of algae. thereafter every 40k major service, if sedimenter clear at every 10k service.

    jc

  8. #8
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    We have very clean fuel up here,the best I've ever experienced so mines done every 6 months or so,an O ring set and spare tap are nothing,$12 last time I bought one.The reason the tap is plastic so it does break,like JC said you can simply stick a bolt or piece of wood in it but the tap is an easy cheap fix and won't migrate to the housing causing the whole lot to be thrown away.Like always a cent spent on prevention is worth a dollar in repairs. Pat

  9. #9
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    Hi All

    Haven't had many fuel issues lately but I have had the unfortunate experience of some really nasty fuel and I prefer to carry two filters because I have been stopped by only having one spare. I usually don't throw the old ones away out bush until i am certain that i have got through the problem and then i put the last clean one on.

    Regards Mark

  10. #10
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    Had a fuel filter on the Patrol fail the other day.

    SWMBO rang and said the car coughed, then stopped and wouldn't restart. Sounded like a lack of fuel she said (well trained )

    It was only up the road, so off I went, cracked the banjo on top of the fuel pump and hit the priming bulb on top of the filter.
    Poor supply and a slight sucking sound from somewhere.

    Bugger, thought it was a fuel line, then had a closer look.

    The bottom corner of the fuel filter had failed !
    It had a slight hair line crack (Nippon-Max and yes, made in China)

    It was the weekend so rang my NRMA mate who I knew would have filters in stock.
    Unfortunately he was on his way back from Sydney, but his mechanic raced up to the shop and collected one for me, and i met him in town (10km away)

    I use Nippon-Max on the Nissan as I get far less rubbish in the thimble filter in the pump than when using any other, including genuine.

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