Fitting Front Runner RWC to a D4

[Graeme]

If anyone has fitted one of these rear wheel carriers to a D4, could you please enlighten me as to how you managed to get the plastic bumper over the carrier tube? I've struggled every which way for a ridiculous amount of time without a hint of success.

Edit: I anticipate removing the lower tailgate in the morning.

[~Rich~]

Hi Graeme,
With the 4x4 intelligence one you fit the steel support bracket to the steel bumper bar after the plastic outer skin has been removed. Then you take accurate measurements from the body to the centre of the pivot axle which has not been fitted yet. Refit the plastic bumper and mark the centre of the hole to drill using the accurate measurements. The pivot axle can then be fitted.

Hopefully the Front Runner one is similar.

[Graeme]

Thanks Rich but sadly the Front Runner has a tube sticking up about 2.5", which is what's presenting the difficulty. The plastic bumper has to be below the tailgate but I can't then get it high enough to clear the tube. I don't know if D3's are any different behind the tail-lights in such a way that might make more room but I've twisted the bumper in every direction trying to find a way. If the lower tailgate is removed it will be simple to lower the bumper over the tube.

[Graeme]

I think I've spotted the cause. The pivot tube is too close to the body by about 20mm so it seems as though the D4's steel bumper is closer to the vehicle than what this mounting bracket expected. The RWC is an undamaged s/h one but not one purchased specifically for a D4. I suspect I'll be replacing the pivot and tube with a stub axle and bearing housing mounted in the FR steel bumper bracket. The Dolium web-site doesn't make any reference to different brackets for different model Discos but this bracket is not suitable for this D4.

Update: The plastic bumper was able to be fitted once the hole was elongated inwards about 15mm. Fitting without a hole template didn't help and pictures of the carrier fitted to other vehicles didn't help much either because the cover plate hides the actual hole.

[ADMIRAL]

The bumper goes over the pivot tube with great difficulty, ( maybe with some loss of skin ) and with the tailgate removed. You may find it an advantage to replace the locating bolt on the bottom of the pivot tube, with the same thread allen head bolt. Then drill an access hole in the underside of the bumper panel. An allen key can be used to adjust and tighten the pivot bolt.

[Graeme]

I would have removed the tailgate when first encountering difficulties except that I preferred not to have to remove the inside panel to disconnect the wiring. As the instructions on the web-site make no mention of removing the tailgate I thought that perhaps I wasn't holding the bumper (or my tongue?) the right way. Anyway with the hole opened further forward the bumper wasn't too difficult to fit.

I can access the retaining bolt satisfactorily using a ratchet spanner although I suspect it would be a different story with Loctite on its thread. I'm going to fit a gas strut rather than use the original stop mechanism and will use a thicker spacer to effectively lengthen the shaft so that the bolt c/w a spring washer can be fully tightened without clamping on the tube so no need for Loctite. I will drill an access hole if it becomes too difficult.

[Discorow]

Hi Graeme
This thread is better with pictures,,,,,,,, maybe you could load some after as I am interested in a RWC but don't know which is best one and it sounds like you have modifications ( Gas strut which is an essential on these type of mods)

RB

[sniegy]

Graeme,
Be prepared to lose skin
I did the same thing as you, After many attempts of trying to fit the bumper i finally got to kinda fit, then strectched, held my tongue awkwardly, stood on one foot & it popped on.

I then had to take it off again because i interferred with the rear Park sensor loom, i fixed (i thought) that problem & then refit the bar.
Later to find out that i actually cut the loom when i refit the bar the 2nd time around
I then found out the rear metal bar has a hole to gain access to the sensor which i popped out of the plastic bar, soldered the wires & all is good..to a point...

Cheers

[Graeme]

I didn't loose skin but the side panels behind the rear wheels were in danger of loosing some paint as was the tailgate although they appear to have escaped scratch-free. Yes, it took a lot of pushing and shoving, with the right knee giving its utmost at the critical point to spread the bumper over both the lower edge of the steel bumper and the tall RWC pivot whilst the lower tailgate was held half open with its plastic cover removed (and some clips broken!).

I haven't fitted a gas strut yet because I still need to acquire tube to make spacers that are normally included to space the catch bracket away from the metal bumper to avoid squashing the plastic bumper. Hence the carrier arm is not currently fitted so haven't started on brackets. With the pivot bushes being so tight the need for a gas strut is not so necessary but I'd prefer the arm to move more freely and have a strut to hold it open, along with an over-centre setup to prevent the arm from opening the moment the catch is released, which would also make for easier operation of the catch when closing.

I suspect the 4x4 Intelligence (if that's still the name) RWC would be far easier to install. If paying full price for a new one then I would have bought one of those anyway.

PS. Sorry, I didn't take pictures in the rush to get it fitted before dark although the task carried over to the next morning anyway.

[Graeme]

I finally got to fit a gas strut today. It has an over-centre setup to stop the arm from trying to open as soon as the catch is released. The strut's force is minimal but didn't want to add to the force req'd to close the arm.

The carrier is not normally fitted but will get some use when I make a detachable jerry-can holder for it to bring petrol home for pumps etc.





It clears the lower tailgate.