d3 auto trans

[mrd3]

hi everyone just about to do 164 km service on discovery 3 tdv6 and wanting to change auto trans pan to metal with removable trans filter but have heard wispers that its the same as bf falcon with zf 6 speed gear box ? does anyone know or do i just bit the bullet & buy it new from zf trans dealer?

regards alan

[d3viate]

Same. I bought from ZF agent and was same price as fleabay anyway, your ZF agent will know this.

[vee8auto]

so what do they cost and is it a DIY job or do you need to work with a car hoist.?

[sheerluck]

so what do they cost and is it a DIY job or do you need to work with a car hoist.?

About $300 for the parts (excluding the fluid), can't answer the other parts of the question as I haven't done one yet.

[Rich84]

You can do it yourself. Access is easy. You need a set of hex bits. The drain plug is 8mm and the fill plug is 6mm IIRC(?). If you want to replace the sump pan you need torx sockets. I haven't done mine yet but I did dump the oil and replace it - I bought the oil from Ford because as you mentioned it's the same ZF 6HP26 as what ford uses, however I'd get it from ZF themselves next time as you can get it in quantity rather than stupid 1L containers. I'll be doing the pan very soon, that is a matter of removing all the bolts, cracking the seal, breaking or cutting the inlet pipe off (or the pan won't clear the crossmember) and then putting the new one on.

The fill procedure is all over the internet, but in short:
1. Fill transmission with a suitable pump until the fluid runs out the filler hole. I have a kinchrome oil pump which is great for this. Mine took about 3L to get to this point.
2. Chock the wheels, then start the engine. Turn the AC on.
3. Immediately top the fluid level off again. It'll take another litre or more.
4. Run through all the gears, stopping for at least 3 seconds in each gear. including sport/manual mode. Run manual mode up to 3rd gear.
5. Top the fluid off again.
6. Use a thermal probe to work out the trans fluid temperature. Once the fluid is at 35deg c, it needs to be topped off. When a small amount of fluid runs out the filler hole at this temperature, you're at the correct level. Plug the trans filler.
For the double / triple flush, repeat the appropriate amount of times!!

[vee8auto]

ok, but what's the story with the fill pipe. I can understand why it needs to be removed but from what I am reading on various forums it seems to be a detail where people disagree. Some say its ok to remove, others say it needs to remain.? Which I am sure makes the re-fit job harder.

[Ean Austral]

ok, but what's the story with the fill pipe. I can understand why it needs to be removed but from what I am reading on various forums it seems to be a detail where people disagree. Some say its ok to remove, others say it needs to remain.? Which I am sure makes the re-fit job harder.

Not sure what you are talking about with the fill pipe but to replace with the metal pan you need to remove the original then cut the plastic pipe that joins the moulded filter to the gearbox and this is what stops the pan from coming away. Once you cut it you move out the plastic pan then pull out the stub of plastic pipe that you cut ensuring you take the old O ring out then the new filter and pipe goes in then fit the sump , fill it with oil and Bobs ya fathers brother.

You can buy the whole lot direct from ZF and if it hasn't had a oil change prior then you buy enough oil to do a refill as a lot of oil stays in the system
Not sure if the petrol is the same as the diesel model. Mine was diesel
Hardest part is getting the car high enough to work underneath it.

Cheers Ean

[BobD]

I just had my D4 3 litre transmission done yesterday by a ZF transmission specialist in Perth. Cost was $1100 including fully flushing the transmission and changing to a metal pan.

They told me that the transmission was perfect and the oil good, just slightly discoloured and not burnt. My car is three years old and has 102,000 km on the clock, with a fair bit of sand driving and caravan towing plus a lot of high speed touring in high temperatures.

They also asked me where I got the engine chipped etc as it went so well! It is acually just the standard 2010 3 litre with nothing done to the engine, but a lot of extra weight from the Kaymar rear bar, twin spares, long range tank, ECB bull bar, dual battery, Mitch Hitch, awning etc, so I was surprised that they thought it had a lot of go.

They are recommending that the transmission should be serviced every 50,000 km without a flush. The flush was only recommended since it had done 100,000 km.

Bob

[AGRO]

Hi BobD,

Two things.

1.. Have you taken out the LR Extended warranty.

2.. Could you PM me the contact details of the shop you used.

Thanks

[BobD]

Agro,

I haven't taken out an extended warranty. I prefer just to pay for any repairs since I am willing to gamble that the cost of the insurance is more than what I am likely to get back from such a scheme.

My worst car for repairs after the warranty expired was my last car, a brand new 2007 VW Multivan TDI auto, which made any Landrover problems look trivial. My transmission failed at 102,000 km (VW paid for it by I paid for the labour), there were continuous engine management problems which the VW dealer several times charged me $500 a pop repairing, which was all wasted as it turned out to be a leaking turbo, and the interior door handle failed which cost $1000 to repair because you had to replace the entire interior trim panel. Finally, just before I sold it at 125,000 km, the DPF failed at a cost of $2500.

I certainly would have won with an extended warranty on that car if it had paid for everything but as it was, the car was leased so the tax man paid for half of the repairs.

Nothing to do with a D3 transmission so sorry to go off topic there!

Bob